#11
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Bringing this back from the dead- I have one of these without the stand, thinking of welding up a 3-leg stand from some heavy rectangle tube I have laying around. Any tips on sharpening the blade? I cut some 16ga steel sheet with it but it was a struggle, I have only cleaned the blade though.
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Grant Aldridge |
#12
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Grind the working edge of the blades, to as close to 90 degrees as you can.
The face of the blades should be clean and flat as well, without any deep scores. Not knowing this machine at all – if possible the blades need to be shimmed, so that they have a about 0.003" clearance between them. A well set-up shear should cut thin paper, as well as a sharp scissors can, Cheers Charlie
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
#13
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Yes what charlie said was right on . Theoretically shears have a 3 deg. rake but by hand 90 deg will work . my blade had a carbide edge so i took it to a blade sharpener , someone with a surface grinder can do it .It works better if it is bolted to the floor . I dont know why anyone makes one of these anymore , probably not cost effective. will nibble an outside curve but cant do an inside like a Beverly shear . Will cut a real straight line all day . and a sharp inside corner .
BTW any one with a corner notcher like a diacro , some are made with a gap between the blade and the frame . You can cut strips of 16 ga. straight and long by feeding it in one side and cutting without cutting the corner notch or closing it all the way . |
#14
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I pulled the plate off my shear and all it is, is an offset crank-pin driving an square block that moves the blade up & down. It shouldn’t be too hard to fabricate the parts. If someone really wants one they can have mine for $1200. The blades have been sharpened (surface ground) and I have the factory front material table as well. I rarely use it because I have a ¼” power shear. ~ John Buchtenkirch
sh60.jpg sh61.jpg sh62.JPG sh63.JPG
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John |
#15
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I lust after one
but my lust is not $1200 worth of lust |
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