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  #1691  
Old 02-10-2021, 08:14 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I was working on the right side window regulator and needed to cycle the window up and down and I don't have power to the motor. There's power to the plug, but no function. I got my multimeter out to start checking and found that the batteries had leaked and ruined it. Balls!

I ordered another and moved on to other things. I got the seat belts mounted and the pretensioner plugged in. While I was messing with the SRS, I tackled another problem. The CTS had side curtain air bags and since I have a lift off roof, I can't use them. No problem, there are plenty of other explosive devices left to pummel me from every angle at near light speed in the event of an accident.
You can't just leave an air bag connection disconnected. The BCM (body control module) pings all electrical circuits constantly to monitor functionality. It expects a specific reply from each circuit. In the case of the side curtain air bag, a functional/nondeployed bag will return a signal of 2 watts - 2 ohms. If the BCM doesn't receive this reply it will throw a trouble code - SRS faulty air bag.


So, what I did was remove the side curtain plug from the harness and installed a 2 watt 2 ohm resistor across the two wires. This tricks the computer into thinking that the air bag is still there and functional. Different vehicles have different requirements. Also, different systems within the same vehicle will have different requirements.


DISCLAIMER: I don't recommend tampering with SRS systems. Beside being illegal, it's dangerous. I have no legal issue in this application because the vehicle is titled as a 1949 Cadillac. Safety and emission requirements are determined based on the year of the vehicle. This car didn't even come with lap belts. Anything beyond that is a bonus.


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Next I needed to make a cowl closure. I have the one from the CTS but it doesn't fit. The firewall is from the CTS so some of it fits but it's wider and doesn't even come close to fitting up to the Buick windshield. I'm using some ABS sheet to form the new cowl along with some scavenged pieces of the CTS cowl. For example, on the CTS cowl the grommets and seals around the wiper arm shafts are injection molded rubber that is merged into the ABS during the molding process. Very clever, I don't know how they do it but I've seen it on other late model automotive parts.


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You can see them in the pictures below. I grafted the grommets and the depressed area around them that clears the wiper arms.
I still haven't decided whether I'll use this as a mold, or if I'll just laminated the ABS with carbon fiber. If I just use them as molds, I'll have to cut these grommets out and install them on the carbon fiber parts. I'll probably just laminate the ABS and use them as is.
This one needs a little sanding and detailing, then it's on to the right side.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-10-2021 at 08:17 PM.
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  #1692  
Old 02-10-2021, 09:44 PM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Jack,



When I got out of the injection molding business there were three general approaches. One, insert the rubber part in the mold and inject the ABS around it. Two, use a second mold, just coming out were machines that injected two different "plastics"






FWIW
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  #1693  
Old 02-12-2021, 12:05 PM
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Wow, 600,000 hits. The same 6 guys 100,000 times?
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  #1694  
Old 02-12-2021, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Wow, 600,000 hits. The same 6 guys 100,000 times?



Who are the other five?
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  #1695  
Old 02-12-2021, 12:42 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Who are the other five?
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  #1696  
Old 02-12-2021, 12:47 PM
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Kidding aside, some of the best all around content I've seen, has em coming back.
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  #1697  
Old 02-14-2021, 06:16 PM
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Giday Jack,

I guess I'm one of the other 5
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  #1698  
Old 02-15-2021, 01:13 PM
devin1 devin1 is offline
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Hey Jack,everyone of those hits well deserved! You said this was your way of paying back the guys that taught you or something along those lines. Lol I think you have certainly paid your debt in full,the variety of skills you have shown us in this thread is pure awesomeness.
THANK YOU!
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  #1699  
Old 02-15-2021, 01:18 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Not paying back. Paying forward.
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  #1700  
Old 02-18-2021, 12:54 AM
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When I was making the carbon fiber engine side closure panels, I didn't have much time to get detailed pictures so I'll go into detail here. When I made those, I was using a mold that was removed after the panels cured. I laid up three layers of carbon fiber cloth and two separate applications of resin. Those are stand alone panels. Their strength is built in.



These cowl panels will remain in their "molds". The ABS and carbon fiber will bond together as a unit so I won't need to use multiple layers of cloth.




I think I mentioned last time that this method is strictly for cosmetic pieces. There are completely different procedures for structural c/f parts that require either pressurized injection molds or vacuum molding and very carefully measured quantities of resin.
The finished ABS panel below has been wiped down with acetone to remove any mold release agents that might be left behind, then lightly sanded rough with 80# on a DA. I masked off the area with the vent/drain holes and it's ready.



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I laid the panel over some c/f cloth and taped off the cut lines leaving plenty of excess material along the edges. Be very careful handling the cloth. It's a loose weave and if it snags, it will pull the strands out of alignment. Cut the cloth with scissors down the middle of the tape and leave the tape on both the piece you're using and the roll so they won't unravel.


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Next, carefully lay the C/F cloth over the panel and tuck in or relief cut where needed.


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Epoxy resin is preferred for C/F, it has a longer work time than polyester resin typically used for fiberglass. Depending on temperature, sunlight (UV), and humidity polyester resin can start kicking in just a few minutes. With epoxy resin you have anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour. C/F doesn't saturate quite as readily as fiberglass, so the extra time to work with a spreader and brush helps.
Pictured below are two separate kits of epoxy resin. The smaller 16 fl oz kit was left over from the side panel work. The 64 fl oz kit is fresh. Two different brands and sizes but the same product.


If you're looking to buy this stuff beware that there are a few unscrupulous characters out there selling it by the ounce (weight). Be sure the label says fluid ounces (fl oz). Also, prices vary wildly. You should be able to get a 64 fl oz kit (2 - 32fl oz bottles) for around $40 USD. About 65 cents per ounce.


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You'll need: 2K epoxy resin kit, mixing cup (the resin doesn't eat up these plastic cups), a flat roller(sqeezes out bubbles and voids), a 90 degree corner roller, brush and spreader, and some acetone for clean up. Lacquer thinner will work also.


Measure accurately and mix thoroughly. Follow the directions that come with the resin. Proportion is vital. If you under catalyze, it won't cure and you'll have an unsalvageable mess on your hands and have to scrap it and start over.



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Pour it on, spread it out, work the bubbles out and let it cure overnight. Clean up is easy with acetone.
Tomorrow I'll trim the edges and sand lightly before putting on another coat of resin. If this were a flat part like the side panels, I would just level the part on the bench and pour the resin on and let gravity do the rest. Since these panels are all different shapes, I'll have to brush on a few layers letting them kick one layer at a time.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-21-2021 at 12:21 PM.
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