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Old 02-03-2021, 12:11 PM
Bibbt Bibbt is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Antonio,Texas
Posts: 20
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Bob and Richard,

Thanks for the helpful input. My device is a battery holder/clip that is used with a 9 volt battery to power a vintage camera. It's really small, think 9 volt battery sized.

The metal isn't subjected to any king of nasty environment unless god forbid the battery leaks. I just chose the 304 stainless banding strap because it has the correct dimensions right off the roll and it is readily available and cheap. It also seems to form nicely and retain it's shape from work hardening. The fabrication shops that made these parts for me in the past used a really obscure aluminum type 5056-H34 that is only available special order in massive quantities so I had to find a more "normal" material to use. I'm sick of dealing with fab shops 2000 miles away so I am bringing all of this back into my garage like when I prototyped this thing 20+ years ago. Sometimes you gotta do things yourself to get it done right and economically. I'm definitely on a shoestring with this pandemic.


I'm gonna drag out my spot welder later today and do some testing. Hopefully the welds are successful and my part retains the "springiness" that is required after heating up. Only way to find out is through real world testing and keeping notes of what I do.

Not exactly sure of the model of Miller welder I have but it is 220v with a timer and is mounted to a stand with a foot pedal to close the tongs and activate the timer. One of you guys mentioned using water-cooled tips/tongs. I don't believe this is an option on my entry grade welder unless someone out there makes a kit to convert it. Please chime in if you know of such a conversion kit. Otherwise, I will just have to go slow and let the machine cool. I'm betting the weld time will be pretty short on .040 total thickness. Thanks for the info guys and I will report how my test goes.

Bibb in San Antonio
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