View Single Post
  #111  
Old 11-02-2014, 05:00 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,689
Default


Time to trim the rear lower wall section to match the new floor profile from the donor. I just simply used the form I had cut out to bend the flange over earlier in the floor. I had hammered flat the flange this wall had and it gave me just enough material that I needed.


One thing that didn't quite workout as well was the length of the flat section below the stock window. Had I been able to use the later wall I would have been ok, but the earlier wall with the smaller window needed to be altered to match the extra width it will have.


So to straighten the rear wall to suit the wider rear window I will make, I had to remove the wall brace. I have found that just driving in a cold chisel a little bit to create a bit of pressure prior to drilling out the top spot weld works well. As you drill through it pops a bit as soon as you are through the first layer of metal stopping you going though the next. I use a pilot point drill bit like shown earlier in my build.


The brace came off without drilling into the wall, apart from the pilot holes. Gives me a good opportunity to remove the rust under the brace as well.


The outside it is easy to strip off the paint and rust, but the inside is another story. So will throw it into my white vinegar and citric acid solution for a while to clean it up.


The solution did its trick and looks much better now.


Using the press plus hammer and dolly, I gently straightened out the wall brace. With the top of the wall I just leant on it while it was supported at each end only, and used a slapping file to flatten it out.


To strip the paint I have been using a paint stripping disc. 3M makes the most popular one but this 7" version was just bought at my local discount hardware store. I try to do only one layer of paint at a time to make sure I don't overheat area one area. Using this is better than a grinder, or sanding disc, as to easy too take off metal as well and leave gouges with those. Good way to find out the history of your cab as well. After the grey I found red, yellow, grey and then a red oxide primer!


Got a bit of a surprise when this nasty dent showed up under a layer of bog. The holes suggest they tried to use a dent puller but failed due to the B pillar being just behind it.


Can see the extent of the damage.


This pillar stops you getting at it as it is under it. The butterfly shaped rust spot is the start of it. I can cut out the damage section and replace it with a piece from the other cab. Will need to address the welding distortion though afterwards. To repair the inside of the pillar I need to take off this outer piece of the pillar, but have to anyway to be able to fully weld the top section back on later. The other way would be to try and remove the whole pillar and then hammer out the skin. Not sure if the damage is to bad or not to get it straight again?


The outside of the wall came up pretty well and without rust.


The inside of the wall below the old floor level had surface rust which couldn't be removed with the strip it disc. Using something like a grinder would have thinned the metal too much and created too much heat. I tried using some rust converter but was not happy with the results. Rather it be gone altogether.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 11:57 PM.
Reply With Quote