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Old 10-12-2014, 06:36 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
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Fold has been put in the outside plate. Did the first one cold with just a hammer in the vice, but found it easier to preheat it with a propane torch to do the others.


This is how the original upper control arm mounted. The donor frame kicked inwards a bit at this point and the sides of the frame were not vertical. That is why the gap on the inside of the bracket.


The control arm actually sits on the end of the tube that passed right through the frame to the outside. I want to do the same thing but will use the lower control arm brackets as my frame kicks up too high.


I have cut away the tubing from the bracket as don't need the piece of sheet metal it was attached too. My control arm bracket is twice the thickness of the frame rail that it was originally spot welded too and will weld it directly to it. I left the extra to see if I can bend it out to fill the gap between the bracket and the frame rail.


The fold now has been straightened out just using the two hammers shown and the anvil. Just requires some dressing yet.


The UCA's, (Upper Control Arms) angle inwards at 10 degrees. I made sure the bracket matched the angle and was level the other way.


Here are the upper and lower control arm brackets mocked are into place to check that all lines up before the welding is done. It is crucial that the pinion angle is properly set also. This one is at 6* as it was from the factory and it matches exactly the output flange of the transfercase. Cars are usually around 3* with their drive-line angle with there gear box and pinion angle matching to prevent vibes.


Main plates welded in.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 03:26 AM.
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