Quote:
Originally Posted by drivejunk
This may be why your "mentor" is on another forum, Schroeder.  |
Hey, IDJ!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957
Jordan, I was looking at the picture below on my cell phone. I am now on my desktop and getting a better view. It appears that you have a wire buck on the fender. If the buck is correct and the face of the flare is snug against it without pulling it in with the clamps, then it appears that you have cut the edge of the piece too short in the area where your gap is. If the clamp is pulling the piece into position, then you might need to trim in the area circled in the picture below to allow the edge to come into place in the 13, 14, 15 area. I would focus on getting the wheeled area in the exact shape you need. Smooth and consistent. Then see where your edges end up.
If you view this piece as a test panel that might end up being scrap, it frees your mind to explore different solutions with no stress. If you can save it, cool. If not, learn from it. You are very close right now. Also, there is no shame in making it in two pieces if you're having trouble making it in one piece. Skill level and time are always factors.
There was a pretty complex panel on the back end of my project that I wanted to try in one piece. I made an attempt but started realizing that what I was attempting to accomplish would require a lot of time and effort whereas making it in two pieces would be just a few hours' work.
Attachment 56925 |
Thanks for the reply, Jack. The area you are suggesting to cut dives down too like it needs shrank or stretched. i have a hard time determining if flat edges need shrank or stretched when they get oil-canny.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Mullin
I too have been looking at this at night on my cell phone. I am now at my desk and realize that there is a gap between the panels at the edge. My original impression was that it was tight at the top edge. I am still looking at the distortion at the clamps which tells me the area is too full. My original comment of stretching the top edge will increase the gap and be of no benefit. It appears as though the entire panel is a bit large.
Sectioning it and then wheeling is one solution. You could also unfold the outer edge and see if you can then get the entire panel to lay down and then re-flange after the corrections are made.
As jack said, there is nothing wrong with starting over having used this as a lesson. There is no right or wrong. I do this professionally and I don't always get it right first time out. The key is to know when to stop and regroup. Forgetting the lost time, there is the additional concern of overworking the panel.
There is another thing to consider in making this panel. It appears as though you have stopped the top edge in the valley of the reverse curve. That is a very risky place to weld. I would include the full reverse in the new part and weld out in the open panel where you can planish your weld. You can not planish the weld adequately in the reverse or it will reduce the shape of the valley (think shrink vs. stretch in a reverse). If you choose to keep going with the existing panel, I would get the part to lay down where you want it and then butt weld a 1 1/2 inch strip to the top edge which you can then stretch on the wheel to integrate the full reverse on your new part. Sounds like a lot of work but the alternative amount of corrective work to weld the panel in place in the valley of the reverse is significant.
If you opt to start over, make the panel to include the full reverse and a bit beyond. Wait to flange the outer edge until you are fully satisfied with the shape and fit. Flanging too early only traps in the problems as you are currently experiencing
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Rick, are you suggesting the order of operations should be
-cut from tape template. leave 2-3" extra around
-wheel in shape
-wheel in reverse curve to meet body
-make sure it sits on the buck perfect
-tip 1st edge that makes flare face
-tip 2nd edge that creates inner fender lip
-trim to fit
?
what are my best deep shrink options with basic tools? tuck shrinking seems to work well with a tuck fork, but the metal is soooo hard in these areas after planishing. not sure if it's work-hardened or just thicker.
I think im making this much harder by having a flare edge face that is perpendicular to the ground at the widest part and then is parallel to the quarter below the body line. this requires a lot of deep shrinking at the body line to make the flare hug the quarter above and below the body line. it gave the improvement shown in my latest pics. If I made the flare face planar (it would sit flat on a table) and trimmed the side that met the car profile accordingly this might be simpler. That means the edge face isn't perpendicular to the ground, but i have some pics of a car that flared like this (and now after trying maybe that's why they did it) and it looks good. The attached CAD drawing shows what I mean.
