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sfm1951 02-19-2022 09:42 AM

Raduis brake
 
I m building a radius brake and needs some help. I have alot of it figured out, but I have some questions on the adjuster mounting of the bearing. I'm going to use a take up bearing for the raising , lowering , and the height adjustment( thanks Metal Manny) the question does anybody have any clear pictures of the adjuster to do this? I think the adjuster take up bearing would have to be mounted at an angle to compensate for the different size radius bars ( 1" 2" 3" etc. ) am I correct that the bearing would have to be stepped back at an angle to to keep the radius bar centered over the follow bar to be kept in position to make the radius of the bend for the follow bar to form it? If I m correct in my thinking the bearing would have to set at an angle to compensate for the difference In radius bar size. Thanks in advance, Steve

racer-john 02-19-2022 04:38 PM

Raduis brake
 
Steve, I am a little confused here, are we talking sheet metal or tubing here?

sfm1951 02-19-2022 06:27 PM

Radius brake
 
For sheetmetal drive shaft tunnels, rolled belly pans, and other parts

racer-john 02-19-2022 09:37 PM

Raduis brake
 
Thanks for the clarification, Steve.
I built one just using a pipe of suitable size with three tabs welded on and bolted to the original upper clamp bar. [to make a rolled rocker panel].

sfm1951 02-22-2022 08:00 AM

Radius brake
 
I 've done that on smaller parts. I don't know if that will give me a nice smooth bend at 180 degrees. Being the tunnel will be probably 5 feet long I don't know if I could do that by myself. Or if I have enough lead in my butt to do it anymore with 16 gauge it might be a struggle. Steve

metal manny 02-24-2022 12:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi Steve, here's a rough conceptual sketch that might be helpful?
Basically you'd have to insert a short tube section into the take-up bearing inner race to hold the lever operating the forming roller so that when the axle shaft for the radius roller is removed, the lever stays in position on its bearings. This isn't vital but would make changing radius rollers much easier when threading the axle through the assembly. Obviously, the axle would be threaded into the tube of the take-up, then into the centre of the radius roller, out the other side and into the other tube in the second take-up.
The forming roller is slid up and down the lever handle on the two flange bearings on inside of lever and locked off on two clamping brackets on outside of said lever. This is simple arrangement and you might prefer adding screw adjusters here, but not necessary IMO.

Naturally, you'll need to do your own drawings to check clearances between the the fixed parts and the maximum and minimum radius roller you envisage ever having need of?
Anyways, good luck and keep us posted on how your build progresses

Attachment 62920

sfm1951 02-27-2022 08:31 AM

Brake
 
Thank you again Metal Manny you drawing really clears up how to do this. I will post pics as I build it, Steve

crystallographic 02-28-2022 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by metal manny (Post 173012)
Hi Steve, here's a rough conceptual sketch that might be helpful?
Basically you'd have to insert a short tube section into the take-up bearing inner race to hold the lever operating the forming roller so that when the axle shaft for the radius roller is removed, the lever stays in position on its bearings. This isn't vital but would make changing radius rollers much easier when threading the axle through the assembly. Obviously, the axle would be threaded into the tube of the take-up, then into the centre of the radius roller, out the other side and into the other tube in the second take-up.
The forming roller is slid up and down the lever handle on the two flange bearings on inside of lever and locked off on two clamping brackets on outside of said lever. This is simple arrangement and you might prefer adding screw adjusters here, but not necessary IMO.

Naturally, you'll need to do your own drawings to check clearances between the the fixed parts and the maximum and minimum radius roller you envisage ever having need of?
Anyways, good luck and keep us posted on how your build progresses

Attachment 62920


Nice design. Thanks for posting this dwg.
(About 20 years ago I saw a 4ft long version of this being sold in a tool flyer - $499.00 on legs ...

After about 6 months and 5 catalogues later I stopped seeing it advertised. ....)

lots2learn 02-28-2022 04:43 PM

I think you can use the forming radius as the only clamp also. And I would not want a bearing on the outside. Better to have some drag on the material when its pulled around the radius. You will still get springback but much more control with some friction.
If you dont want to mark/scratch material the outside wiper could have plastic face. Maybe a bushing on the handle pivot also. Your forces are much lower than a typical brake and they do not use any bearings.

metal manny 03-01-2022 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lots2learn (Post 173061)
I think you can use the forming radius as the only clamp also. And I would not want a bearing on the outside. Better to have some drag on the material when its pulled around the radius. You will still get springback but much more control with some friction.
If you dont want to mark/scratch material the outside wiper could have plastic face. Maybe a bushing on the handle pivot also. Your forces are much lower than a typical brake and they do not use any bearings.


Correct, one could indeed use the forming roller as the clamp and this would further simplify the build. The reason I used take-up bearings here was not so that the forming roller could turn, but to help Steve use cheap off-the-shelf parts for the adjusters. A simple pin to prevent rotation of this roller could easily be applied to good effect at both ends if using the lower roller as the clamp.

Bronze bushes for the forming roller would also be preferable, but again, for ease and simplicity in construction, I suggested using flange bearings - plentiful, cheap, and quite effective.;)


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