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  #791  
Old 11-27-2017, 12:28 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Sure do like your work, Jack.
So do I! Awesome work. I had not thought of pancaking a hood like that.
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  #792  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:34 PM
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Kerry, when I was cutting the skin up, I had one of the halves in my hands and was thinking " ... this looks familiar." Then it hit me, I could have saved myself a ton of work on the rear fender skirts by using a hood! I held it up over the skirt that I made and BAM! almost identical. Trim the edges, tip a flange along the top, and build the frame. Done. I'll keep that in mind if I'm ever crazy enough to build another lead sled.
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  #793  
Old 12-09-2017, 11:11 AM
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I've had a ton of stuff to do around the house before it starts snowing but I also managed to get some work done on the Cad. I just didn't have time to mess with the posts so I'll get you all caught up. I did some more work with body side moldings. I got the left side door and fender trim finished. When I started bending the spear for the rear fender, I developed a leak in my acetylene regulator. I smelled it and tracked it down before I blew myself up but no torches till the rebuild kit comes.

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I had to set the windhield in place again so I could make the hood hinges and cut the back edge of the hood to fit the shape of the glass.

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I made new hinges by grafting parts from the original 49 hinges and parts from a later model set that I had laying around. I don't even know what they were from but they had what I needed. I couldn't use the original 49 hinges because when I pancaked the hood it became too low for the originals. I really wanted to use them but there was no way.

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I trimmed the back edge of the hood and welded in a length of 1/2" round tube along the edge. then I finished working the oil canning problem out of the left center area of the skin. Since my torches are still down I used a Burnzamatic propane torch to heat the high spot.It doesn't take a lot of heat so that was plenty. I'm not sure how to explain the process but it's sort of like a dolly off process but the dolly is actually "on". When I heat the area to be worked, the expansion of the metal will cause the area to rise. With a flat dolly below, I use a slightly crowned body hammer to pound down the heated area with the dolly directly below the hammer but not hammering hard enough to pound the steel all the way down to the dolly. You should not hear that solid "tink" sound when hammering. This process gathers the hot metal. If you hit too hard and start hearing the solid sound of metal crashing against metal, you are stretching. After you've done that, just run a wet rag over the area. Check and repeat as needed.
After mounting the hinges and the hood, I noticed that I didn't quite hit my target at the rear corners of the hood. I added filler panels to the fenders to allow the hood to open without interfering with the fenders but they still do a little.

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To correct this problem I need to cut off the filler panels that I just installed. Cut the back corners of the hood so they are forward of the pivot point of the hinges, then make new larger filler panels. As they are now, when I open the hood, the upper portion of the back corners of the hood dip downward and the lower portion comes upward. If I make these changes, when I open the hood the whole rear area will move upward and clear the filler panels.

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  #794  
Old 12-09-2017, 12:05 PM
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The hood looks great Jack.
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  #795  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:18 PM
preston preston is offline
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Been following the build since the beginning just wanted to say thank you so much for sharing your techniques and thought process. Learned a ton watching this thread, and I'm really digging the rendering. Although I worry more than you do about the part where you mate the modern chassis with the body.

Yeah the hood looks amazing for something you worked by hand and just has the primer on it no filler.
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  #796  
Old 12-11-2017, 08:17 AM
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Yeah the hood looks amazing for something you worked by hand and just has the primer on it no filler.


I did cover my welds with some Duraglass before I put the epoxy primer on. It will still need some bodywork later, I just needed to get the bare metal covered as soon as possible. I will probably need to get the doors and fenders media blasted by the time I get them ready. Weather changes around here cause problems with bare steel.
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  #797  
Old 12-12-2017, 08:51 AM
rustreapers rustreapers is online now
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Default Shop tools!

Any one else noticed his shop tools appear to be a rolling wheel, bead roller and planisher?
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  #798  
Old 12-12-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rustreapers View Post
Any one else noticed his shop tools appear to be a rolling wheel, bead roller and planisher?


My message from the very beginning has been that although it's nice to have equipment, it isn't mandatory. You can get started with very little capital investment and get good results. This thread is mainly directed toward the guys that think they might want to get started but don't have much money or experience and don't know anyone locally that can help them learn.
I think the most important part is putting in the time to practice and learn from everything you do. Build on it and progress.
There is a thread on this site right now where the poster is going through the experiment/trial and error process that is exactly what I'm talking about. I think it is named making a 2" sphere or something like that. find it and watch the process. To me, the finished product is not the point of this thread. Experimenting is. The poster starts with an idea and is not satisfied with his results. He determines why the results are inferior and corrects the process. Still not satisfied, he changes the manufacturing process. Better but not great. Then he tweaks it a little and Bam! You're a genius! At this point, if he wanted to duplicate the product, machinery would be the way to go but he still had to put in the time to learn what needs to be done.
This is what makes you better every time you go out in the garage. Look around this forum and others like it. There are many metal shapers around that are far more skilled than I will ever be. The advantage to that is that if I'm ever in a jam, I'll always have someone there that can help me out. I also know that every time I do a project, I come out the other side better than I was when I started.



Here's the link for the 2" sphere ----> http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showt...light=2+sphere
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 12-13-2017 at 10:24 PM.
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  #799  
Old 12-13-2017, 08:30 AM
gooberdog gooberdog is offline
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Dear Jack, where does one man carry that much humble? To state that you are showing what can be done with just a few tools - Your results are amazing, inspiring and proof that it's the craftsman not the tool.

To suggest that your results are typical for a novice with a few tools is a little hard to swallow. I think that your signature line is the most telling and teaching sentiment that your work demonstrates. Make mistakes and learn from them.
You are an inspiration to me
Chuck
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  #800  
Old 12-13-2017, 09:03 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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I interpret "carry that much humble" to be intended as a compliment.

I'd restate it as a demonstration of the attitude and life purpose of a citizen of our great country - an extension of the thought that "all men are created equal" - with regard to the opportunity to achieve.

What made America "great" is the development and maintenance of the "competitive instinct" fostered by the opportunities our society promotes.

Factors that we seem to be throwing away. Rather than "working for it" like Jack exemplifies, too many are relying on various forms of manipulation -taking the easy road."

Wherever you are, please keep these sterling qualities in the back of your mind, you and your community will benefit tremendously!

Onward and upward.
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