#31
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We have a few more spots to fix from cracking and fatigue, namely the holes on the underside for the rubber hood bumpers. We've already repaired three, and from the looks of it, need to take care of the remaining three..
18 Gauge x 1/4" plugs were TIG welded in to fill the existing holes, and a copper backer gives us a bit of a heat sink so the cracks/fatigued areas don't blow a big hole on us.. Welds were dressed on both sides of the sheet metal, and new holes drilled slightly in farther from the edge to help slow down the reappearance of cracks. Next, I'm sure everyone has seen how these hoods can oil can, show low spots, and try to flop around while driving down the road. Part of that is abuse over the years, fatigue, etc. Any low spots invariably result in a loss of support of the hood and will show oil cans or loose areas. A good tool to check the crown of the hood is a long straight edge in the form of a 36" rule. If you don't have one, most hardware stores sell aluminum flat bar for a few dollars that will make a good profile template. For this style hood, lows are bad, straight is better, and a slight crown in the center crease along the entire length of the "flat" area of the hood is optimal.. This gives the support to help eliminate those oil cans and floppy hoods. When we started there was an obvious area about 12" forward of the rear edge, dead center, that appears low, and was easily pushed downward. In order to better define the center crease and provide the support needed, we will use a sand bag (a rather large one) and lightly hammer from the bottom side into said bag with a purpose built "punch". In order to keep the back portion of the hood down against the bag for support, we used our latest "metalshaping" tool to hold the front of the hood up, an engine hoist.. A reference mark is used on the inside, measured and centered... The crease was checked for low spots prior, and the bottom marked. The "punch" is dragged along the centerline and tapped as you go. Flip the hood over, check crown, remark low area as needed, repeat. We got to a good straight/slight crown and the oil can disappeared. Pushing along the entire center crease was a nice tight support now.. So if you are having issue with your hood, I would suggest first checking your center crease.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 04-22-2020 at 05:39 AM. |
#32
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Love the beater bag. Never seen one so big before.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#33
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Peter helped me fill it up when he was at the shop, 5 ea 5 gallon buckets of used sandblast media..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#34
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Nice work. I am swapping a 51 F1 to billet 56 hood hinges. Talk about a circus! I will be glad to get to the parts you have been doing.
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Matt |
#35
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The 51 F7 hood is closer to reuniting with the brace with the newly repaired ends.. Epoxy primer will be under the brace this time around to help prevent the new side patches from rusting again..
Some blocking tips on the F7 hood. We have a nice crease on the inside of the hood from front to back. These scratches show that we would be taking material off the adjacent side if no other steps were taken to stop our sanding block at the center of the crease... By adding a strip of tape along the center, it gives us a positive stop for the sanding block.. Then switching for the other side.... Which leaves us a nice crease in the middle, and panels nice and flat to either side... Final blocking on the inside using tape to keep the center line sharp, then brace welded in place and some epoxy touch ups done.. With the touch ups blocked, we're ready for some Epoxy/sealer, some PPG ESSS base, and my first time spraying SPI Universal... WooHoo! love this clear!! These Ford truck hoods can be a pain to get good paint coverage inside the nose.. So a couple pieces of TIG wire from our rack to the hood brackets hold it up in the air so we can get into the nose with the spray gun..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#36
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Awesome job of it.
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#37
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Thanks Pugsy!
Thought I'd do a progression of pictures to show the carnage we started with on the hood brace to where it was painted this past weekend.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDZyTTuUGVE Note the wings left adjacent to the weld to act as heat sinks and prevent the edge from burning back... No Body filler, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#38
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Robert
Another fine example of why you were selected as MSOTM Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#39
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Thanks for the kind words Steve!!
So every time we place the hood on my folding stand, the hood skin deflects upward at those pressure points (corners). Which means that won't work for blocking out the hood. So lets' use the same supports that the hood uses and make a blocking "stand". Large 5/8" bolt through the hood latch hole for supporting the nose... And going through our scrap inventory, here's some tubing we used for the back end, bolted into the hinge support. The extra "feet" help to stabilize it so the sanding effort won't try and flop it over... With that done, all our open holes are taped over and the entire bottom side masked off to protect the inside finish.. A bit of Evercoat 416 to address some lows, and 3 coats of SPI epoxy for the next round of blocking on the outside. Blocking... Some booth clean up and fresh masking on the table, hood pre-cleaned and tacked..... Sealed with SPI Epoxy thinned about 10% Fleet paint that was used originally on the truck, supplied by owner. Orange peel in a can.. 2 coats of color, 2 coats of SPI Universal Clear...
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#40
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Very nice Robert.
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