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  #41  
Old 01-08-2018, 07:31 PM
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pplace pplace is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2018
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hector, MN
Posts: 149
Default Master cylinder / booster mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by fred26t View Post
Having built 5 race cars and 7 street cars, one street bike I am amazed at how much thought it takes to do it takes. Fred26t
That's for sure, and with each project you learn more to incorporate into the next build!

This post will show how I designed a bracket for the master cylinder & booster.

I wanted the actual mounting bracket to be welded permanently to the chassis, yet have a method for dropping the actual pedal assembly out for ease of assembly as well as maintenance of the unit in the future.

It might be hard to make sense of it in the pictures, but I'll try to describe it below if possible.

The first picture shows the overall design of the bracket, but doesn't show what comes apart for removing the pedal pivot very good. It does however show the pedal pivot shaft bolt (the one with the grease zerk in the head)

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The second picture helps show things a bit better. You will notice the pedal pivot shaft is actually split into two halves.

The one half that is tack welded to the actual bracket extends through a drilled hole in the inner boxing plate of the frame and is welded both on the inside of the frame and on the outside of the frame rail where it's welded flush.

The other half of the pivot shaft (the one with the cardboard mockup pedal and the arm that attaches to the heim & rod going back to the master cylinder) is removable.

To remove the pedal assembly shaft you unbolt the shaft pivot bolt (The one with the grease zerk) and unbolt the plate on the opposite end of the shaft (the diamond shaped one with two holes in it) which is actually attached to a shaft machined to the i.d. of the outer shaft. Once unbolted, the inner shaft slides out and the pedal portion of the shaft will drop free.

Note: The machined inner shaft has a machined spiral groove and is drilled to allow the grease from the zerk to lube the entire shaft length.

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Here the complete assembly is tacked into the frame rail. The diamond plate bolts to the outer frame rail with two bolts to "lock" the inner shaft into position (along with the center pivot bolt with the zerk)

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View from the other side

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  #42  
Old 01-08-2018, 08:00 PM
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pplace pplace is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2018
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hector, MN
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Default Rear suspension

I designed and drew up numerous brackets and had them laser cut out.

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Here is a close up of one of the engine mount brackets installed.

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Here is the triangulated 4-link air-ride tacked into place. Checked for nice smooth motion through all ranges of suspension travel.

We swapped rear end housings as well. Changed the width a bit and if I remember correctly the previous one had two different axle styles (bearings) and housing ends installed?!? Seemed odd to me!ha

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Closer picture showing the upper air bag mount on the frame rail, the lower bag mount on the axle and the upper link and brackets.

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Here is the lower link bar and axle brackets. The bar was mounted on the outside of the frame rail.

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This shows the how I had to make the upper link brackets different as it was a centered pinion carrier / offset housing.

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This shows the lower link bar brackets clamped to the frame for testing. There were two side plates flush with the frame sides with a center shaft for the bar end mounting bolt.

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View from the rear. I bent up a tubular crossmember. (yes the bend is offcenter. I thought it looked better to "mirror" the rear end housing rather than be off center but symmetrical in the frame.

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Here the upper shock brackets were fit on the crossmember and the shocks installed and tested for fit & operation / travel.

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Dane
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  #43  
Old 01-09-2018, 04:02 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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How much did you have to go back and forth with the customer on all these changes? Was it all worked out beforehand and did you have a lot of freedom to make choices you thought necessary?
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  #44  
Old 01-09-2018, 07:19 AM
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pplace pplace is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2018
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
How much did you have to go back and forth with the customer on all these changes? Was it all worked out beforehand and did you have a lot of freedom to make choices you thought necessary?
The customer was not a car person at all so there was a lot of freedom from him. Kept up to date with pictures and descriptions of progress frequently. Unfortunately, as you’ll see later for multiple reasons the project did leave me unfinished. This project was a large undertaking and there were some unreal expectations from the customer from not being a “car guy” and not understanding the process and what was all involved in a full ground up build. I was the third shop the vehicle was at (which is amazing for the poor condition the project arrived to me in). Unfortunately, I know this is how some of these large projects go from talking to other shops, as it’s a big commitment for both the shop and the customer. Towards the end we even tried to purchase the project so we could finish it ourselves or offer it to another client of ours, that offer was not entertained however. It was disappointing for me as I had poured so much time, effort and heart into the project.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time.

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Last edited by pplace; 01-09-2018 at 07:38 AM.
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  #45  
Old 01-09-2018, 07:34 PM
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pplace pplace is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2018
 
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Default Chassis plumbing

This will be a fairly long post with a pile of pictures focusing on mainly the "plumbing" of the chassis: Brake lines, fuel line, air lines, emergency brake cables, air system components, etc.\
I bent up a removable transmission crossmember mount. If you look you can see the flange with two bolts. Unbolt each side from the frame and the crossmember drops out.

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View of the transmission mount from the bottom.

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Here I've started routing the individual emergency brake cables (temporarily held with zip ties while I work on it). I inserted a curved tube inside each frame rail that softly routed the cable through each rail nicely without kinking it at all.

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A close up of the cable exiting out the passenger frame rail and is held into a "split" clamp that I welded to the frame that lines it up with the brake caliper.

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I fabricated internal structure inside the frame rail in order to securely mount the sway bar through the frame itself. (The frame is upside down on a rotisserie in this picture)

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Close up of one of the sway bar frame "caps" unbolt this and you gain access
to the actual mounting hardware of the sway bar itself.

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This picture shows more components mounted to the chassis along with the maze of stainless lines! The passenger rail is fuel line as well as individual lines going to the front air bags and a supply line coming from the tanks.

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This view shows the dual air tanks and compressors and also the solenoid block for the air ride as well as more individual lines going to each rear air bag.

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Another view help showing the lines and the bends required to route them nicely. I fabricated the clamps on the frame that separate them and hold them in place. All lines were flared stainless with AN fittings.

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The driver side showing all the brake lines and components (the blue items above the master cylinder and booster are residual valves) Again these are all stainless with AN fittings.

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This close up shows the adjustable proportioning valve for the brakes. Also shows how I fabricated the air tank mounts. This side wasn't as involved, but the mounts on the passenger tank also align and clamp the stainless lines in place correctly.

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Here we are jumping back to show how the pair of emergency brake cables were mounted to the outside rail and connect into the adjustable "Y" block that brings it down to a single cable that routes into the cab to the emergency brake handle.

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This last picture shows the fabricated body mounts (That were drawn up and laser cut out earlier)

Here you can also see by this time I had fully welded the new frame rails and boxing plates.

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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time.

Dane
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  #46  
Old 01-09-2018, 08:13 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Very nice Dane!!

The lines are an area where many builders kinda miss the mark. Yours are well thought out.

Thanks for sharing.

Steve
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  #47  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:49 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Shame when you can't follow it through to the end but at least you know who ever took it on will see your quality of work.
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aka. Gojeep
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http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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  #48  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:51 PM
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pplace pplace is offline
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This post is pretty much nearing completion....as I mentioned unfortunately this is as far as I was able to take the project before it left me. I'll attach a couple pictures as the project arrived and a few of how it left.

Also I will look on another computer as I know I have pictures of what I envisioned for the box.....that would have MADE the pickup in my mind. I was so close to starting work on fabricating a new box from scratch, but never had the chance unfortunately.

Thanks for following along and the positive posts and comments, I hope you've enjoyed the pictures and descriptions of the work I performed on this project.

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Here is another picture I found showing what was lurking under the primer on the fenders to start with. Thus leading to my decision to shape new from scratch basically.

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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time.

Dane
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  #49  
Old 01-13-2018, 01:29 AM
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red baron red baron is offline
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This guy is good.
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  #50  
Old 01-13-2018, 04:59 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Turned out so nice.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
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