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  #11  
Old 05-27-2015, 06:55 PM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Figured a picture is worth a thousand words. I think I have everything for the duplicator if not I don't know what I'm missing.
The rest of the tooling I have for the P-6
If this doesn't answer you questions let me know and I will do the best I can to answer them.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2015, 07:06 PM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SATAUS View Post
Really nice job Steve, looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks Scott
This will go fairly fast as a lot of the fabrication is finished and as I'm a newbie. ----- The pictures are from a while back and I started from the beginning.
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2015, 01:31 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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This is the tire being used. It is 17" across the tread surface and 21" wide across the section by 33" tall.
Narrowed rear end required for the wide wheels and tires to keep everything tucked inside under the body.
The drag tire is about 7" taller than the stock tire. In order to keep the car at stock height the rear end would need to be moved up 3 1/2 inches and the plan is to have the car setting lower than stock so that moves it up even higher in the chassis. The chassis will be certified for well over 200 MPH. The bare minimum tire to wheel tub clearance @ 200 MPH is 3"and more is better to allow for tire growth. In order for the tubs to be installed as high as possible they were centered in the "C" post. If you look at the bottom of the photo you will see a line 2" behind the "C" post center line. That is the stock rear axle center line. The rear end was moved forward to center the tire in the "C" post to maximize tub height.
The big tires require the body wheel openings be opened 5". The simplest way I found to do this is to cut the center straight across the top and 90 degrees down. Take a 5"section out --- slide the cut piece forward and weld it back in. That leaves a center gap that is a fairly simple part to make. Another thing I like about doing it this way is it keeps all the original body lines.
When Finished it looks original.
Tire/Body prospective.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:27 AM.
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  #14  
Old 05-30-2015, 06:35 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thanks for showing how you are going about this.
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  #15  
Old 05-31-2015, 09:34 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Thanks for showing how you are going about this.
Thanks for responding. Knowing there is interest out there keeps me motivated to continue.

I though for those of you that have not been bitten by the the drag race bug and exposed to this type of build may find some of this process interesting.
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  #16  
Old 05-31-2015, 10:13 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Steve
If you look at the views for the thread 807 people have looked at it so there is interest, just not many comments.
Looks great!
Thanks for sharing the project
Steve
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2015, 11:13 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
Hi Steve
If you look at the views for the thread 807 people have looked at it so there is interest, just not many comments.
Looks great!
Thanks for sharing the project
Steve
Thanks Steve. ----- And I did over look the view counter.
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Last edited by qkiss; 05-31-2015 at 06:33 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #18  
Old 05-31-2015, 08:15 PM
geelhoed geelhoed is offline
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Steve I enjoy threads like this . I really like building door cars like this. I have been doing that kind of work for over 34 years. Working with good sheetmetal from the 60's is kind of nice. I have built cars with composite bodies and late model steel shells but working with older steel is much nicer. That looks like it will be a Pro-mod style car when completed with that fab housing and 4-link setup. Keep the pictures coming. Enjoy the build.

Andy Geelhoed(guesswork)
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  #19  
Old 05-31-2015, 08:25 PM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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This part is not sheet metal work but to tie it all together it is probably best to show the chassis build also.
This is an all round 4130 chromoly tube chassis that is TIG welded together.
This shows the perimeter cage tubes being fit snugly to the inside of the body. "A" post tubes fit like this promotes good viability.
Rear frame section and main hoop down tubes. The cardboard template is of the wheel tub end cap and is used to verify proper tube placement for wheel tub clearance. A BIG point to to understand about cage and chassis tube placement that will make your life much easier when it comes time to do the tin work is. ------- PLACE THE CAGE AND CHASSIS TUBES AROUND THE TIN NOT VISE VERSA ------ That is while you are placing a tube think about its compatibility with the tin work. Sometimes moving a tube an inch or two one way or another will make the difference whether the panel can be made in 1 piece or require 2 or 3 pieces to get around a misplaced tube.
Tail section to rear valence.
More perimeter tube fitting.
With all the perimeter tubing tacked in place the body can now be removed and life will be much easier to finish the chassis.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:29 AM.
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  #20  
Old 05-31-2015, 08:40 PM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geelhoed View Post
Steve I enjoy threads like this . I really like building door cars like this. I have been doing that kind of work for over 34 years. Working with good sheetmetal from the 60's is kind of nice. I have built cars with composite bodies and late model steel shells but working with older steel is much nicer. That looks like it will be a Pro-mod style car when completed with that fab housing and 4-link setup. Keep the pictures coming. Enjoy the build.

Andy Geelhoed(guesswork)
Good eye Andy ------- This will have meaning to you then. This is a 25.1E double frame rail chassis and if you look closely at the rear end housing you will notice it is a full floater.
Thanks Andy
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