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  #21  
Old 01-03-2010, 03:37 PM
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Gleeser Gleeser is offline
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I think the portapower comments weren't necessarily meant as "push the dent out" It's just a means of support for dollying. Not actually forcing the lows out with the jack itself. More of a 3rd arm or a really long left arm as it were. With no floor in it, you just set the jack (or whatever) on a block. No more pressure on the jack than what you could egzert with your arm reaching through the window.... hope that makes sense.

At least that's what I meant. I agree, I would NOT try pushing the low out with a jack. It'll just make more new and exciting problems.
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  #22  
Old 01-04-2010, 09:33 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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I understood exactly what you meant with the portapower and think it a good idea. I didn't do anything with the floor jack attachment thing because of the angles involved.
What i did was study it for 3-4seconds and just wailed the hell out of it with a slapper, took a ballpeen inside and wailed the hell out of that, like i said i am gaining confidance.
This pic is same area, a couple more therapudic sessions and it'll be there i think.

Shop 052.jpg

Last edited by jhnarial; 01-04-2010 at 07:01 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-04-2010, 09:35 AM
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My dear old Dad used to tell me the first rule of maintenance is "If all else fails, get a bigger hammer."
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  #24  
Old 01-04-2010, 10:49 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gleeser View Post
I think the portapower comments weren't necessarily meant as "push the dent out" It's just a means of support for dollying. Not actually forcing the lows out with the jack itself. More of a 3rd arm or a really long left arm as it were. With no floor in it, you just set the jack (or whatever) on a block. No more pressure on the jack than what you could egzert with your arm reaching through the window.... hope that makes sense.

At least that's what I meant. I agree, I would NOT try pushing the low out with a jack. It'll just make more new and exciting problems.
OK, yes that does make more sense to me . Lacking a porta-power and the proper shaped end he could just tack a general purpose dolly (also called a railroad or track dolly) on the end of a piece water pipe angled down to the floor and then run a plank from where the pipe touches the floor over to the wall for a dead-man. The tight radius end of that dolly would likely be perfect for the radius on that roof and give a directional hit point no matter what is used to hammer on the outside. ~ John Buchtenkirch


P.S. I would just use my much beloved Watervliet with a lower directional die to smooth out that problem in no time but that's not much help for someone that doesn't own one.
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2010, 01:37 PM
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John Kelly John Kelly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojh View Post
I understood exactly what you meant with the portapower and think it a good idea. I didn't do anything with the floor jack attachment thing because of the angles involved.
What i did was study it for 3-4seconds and just wailed the hell out of it with a slapper, took a ballpeen inside and wailed the hell out of that, like i said i am gaining confidance.
This pic is same area, a couple more therapudic sessions and it'll be there i think.
One thing to watch out for if you do a lot of stretching with the ballpeen hammer alone... make sure you are firmly pressing a shot dolly against the surface to absorb the blow so that you are stretching with out displacing the surface too much. A little ballpeen only is fine, but the more you do, the more likely you are to change the surface contours in a way that you do not intend. As an experiment, I stretched a whole quarter panel out about 1-1/2" for a flare using just the ballpeen, and a hammer and dolly to smooth.. Thousands of small blows did the job and it was super easy to see exactly where to stretch, but the unrestrained stretching pulled a large gap between the deck lid and quarter even with some major body lines and form making the area rigid. This is similar to what happens with the baseball bat method of "stretching" fenders. Low spots can form nearby, door gaps open up etc.

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  #26  
Old 01-04-2010, 03:37 PM
ojh ojh is offline
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I did the search in all the various 'tools' threads and came up short, what is a 'watervliet' sounds like i might need one of these. Remember, i showd you guys only one side of my roof, i got another side just like the first side!
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  #27  
Old 01-04-2010, 06:32 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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OJ It's a hand held pneumatic planishing hammer thst hasn't ben made for decades. Good luck trying to find one!

Clay cook makes a copy of the Chicago Pneumatic hammer over $1500.00

Your method will work just fine but not as fast.

Steve
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  #28  
Old 01-04-2010, 09:37 PM
louieb63 louieb63 is offline
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Originally Posted by louieb63 View Post
Careful work with hammer and dolly will stretch the material back to the fitted size. Remember, stretch both perpendicular and in line with the welds. Start by working on the butt joints in the added strip.
Louie
John,

When I said to stretch in both directions I should have added "in each direction as needed not a general all over stretch".

Yes it is difficult to see what the exact problem is from photos

Louie

Last edited by louieb63; 01-04-2010 at 09:39 PM.
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2010, 11:16 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ojh View Post
I did the search in all the various 'tools' threads and came up short, what is a 'watervliet' sounds like i might need one of these. Remember, i showd you guys only one side of my roof, i got another side just like the first side!
I probably shouldn’t have even mentioned the Watervliet but did because that is the tool I would have used without a second thought. This giving advice stuff is kinda hard for me because I have tools and equipment I have acquired after being in the collision & sheet metal businesses for very close to 40 years but I have to give advice for when I was in the business for 5 years at least equipment wise if that makes any sense at all . I can only relay information on where I am today technique wise, much of what I did 30 or 40 years ago is forgotten or poor ideas.


The Watervliet is a pneumatic fender planishing hammer that was used in the collision business to level out damaged fenders. They haven’t been made in years and they command serious money on eBay particularly if they are complete sets. I have all five different frames so I am able to planish most weld seams. I have owned at least 6 different brands of air hammers and like the Watervliet the best . I will not be selling mine till I die . ~ John Buchtenkirch

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  #30  
Old 02-03-2010, 12:23 PM
ojh ojh is offline
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Don't want to beat a dead horse here but a question is nagging me. The shrinkage occured only on the radius'd edges, as in my photos, the cenetr of the roof etcetc is fine. What is going on here that i need to be aware of in the future and what preventive steps should i be making. In short, i welded 4 feet without shrinkage and when i came to the curve where the roof wrapped down to the door i had problems, does the curve get tougher or direct the hot metal/shrinkage or focus it somehow? Thanks oj
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