#11
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Barb, if it came for the door skin you made for Kerry then it is 3003 and if you anneal it you should be able to work it again.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#12
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Procrastinating? We'll discuss that later ..................
Annealing should do the trick. Usually, you can feel it coming along with aluminum too, but it might have been getting work-hardened when you left off and then reached the lockup point right when you started working it again. Try some 18ga steel....you just might forget to anneal your aluminum from time to time. When I first started shaping, I had a fair amount of .040 aluminum laying around. I worked it without annealing it, I annealled it, whatever the metal seemed to call for. My first exerience with 18ga steel was at MM04 and the thought going through my mind was "This s#%& ain't moving!". Now I consider aluminum cheating as it is sometimes almost too easy to shape! Tim D. |
#13
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Joe,
I think it is that same stuff. I will try annealing with the sharpie trick. Tuck, Yea, you should have seen the way it laughed at my bending brake! That's when I knew it wasn't just Me! I'm happy to learn my arm is still working! I love Copper I love Copper I love Copper I love Copper... |
#14
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Hey Barb,
I've been working more and more with copper lately. I've just been letting it cool slowly to anneal after getting it red hot with the torch. Would I be better off quenching? I agree that you can tell when copper hardens up and needs to be annealed again, but it seems to happen quick! Thanks, Mark |
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