#1491
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I got the hood corners straightened out. I made a few attempts with hinges before I got to where the hood opens without touching the top corners of the doors. The hinges now extend about 4" aft of the corners of the hood, into the door jamb area. When the hood is opened, the back edges lift upward and back and clear the doors. Once this was achieved, I could smooth out the corners and finish the hood. I also welded sheet metal in to fill the holes where I had originally intended to mount door handles. I won't need them since the latches are electronic. I have mounted small waterproof momentary switch buttons on the backside of the mirror stands to operate the door latches.
I blocked the black primer with 150# then put 3 heavy coats of Squeeg's primer on. Gaps are good and I still have room for adjustment if needed after it's painted. These panels are gapped and straight.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 06-20-2020 at 07:39 PM. |
#1492
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Looking good there Jack.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1493
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Looking nice Jack! What electronic door latches are you using?
Thanks Rick
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Rick kuhns |
#1494
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The originals from the CTS.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1495
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Making progress. The hood wasn't bad. I missed a couple dings, so I bumped them out from the back side.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1496
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Looking good jack
Thanks for keeping us up to date with the progress. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#1497
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Superlatives fail Jack. I think I've used them all.
How does your primer hold up to bumping? Are you going to have to sand down those areas and reprime?
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#1498
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Quote:
I found the low spots while block sanding the black primer. I had epoxy primer on directly to the bare metal, then a high build primer surfacer over that. That was the black that has been on it all along. When I was blocking, I could see that the primer was getting thin and the low spots had not been touched with the sandpaper. I used "dolly off" method to bump the lows up until the sanding leveled it out. Since I was dolly off, I wasn't crushing the primer so it didn't crack. Also the lows weren't that bad so I didn't have to beat the crap out of it. The epoxy and surfacer are somewhat forgiving. They'll take a little abuse, but not a lot. The squeeg's is a whole different animal, though. I use it because it "locks". No shrinking in or die back. You can use even the hottest reducers when putting the finish color on and it won't penitrate the primer. It's a solvent barrier. The downside to it is that it can crack if you start hammering on it. There's always a trade off. I used the black primers first so I could find the imperfections while prepping for the final primer. All the tweeking and fine tuning is done now. Before the final primer. When it's time to block the yellow stuff there should be no surprises. Just finish sand and go to paint. This is an extra step over what I would do in standard collision repair, but necessary considering how many alterations have been done. I try not to leave details til later, but I miss a few here and there.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 06-22-2020 at 09:12 PM. |
#1499
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Your car is really looking sexy!!!
Thank you for sharing all of your experience and skills, while building it.
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Mike |
#1500
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A little more progress. I finished the inner doors and the front valance. This is the valance below the grille, not the splitter below the bumper.
Next I'll gap the right fender and door.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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