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  #11  
Old 01-24-2020, 04:54 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Hi Bernt,
Been thinking about this one

I like using water way more than sand - even with using a sand rammer I get more satisfaction.
And tubes are clean when done!

Makes nice roll bars and cages, approved by racing safety folks ....

Water is used with fittings that clamp on the tube ends, called swageloks. Put a swagelok on one end and tighten fully.

Make the meniscus rise fully in the other end - w/swagelok and then cap it off tightly.
Make bend with whatever contraption suits (no Yobbos).
ps - can also freeze for more tightness - and then use the ice bending method.

Success and joy,
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2020, 01:00 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Reading your initial post, it seems that you don't have many tools. As other posters have suggested, perhaps you can source ready made sections to do the job. I get pre-bent stainless tube from suppliers who sell to food and process plants. All you'll need to do thereafter is cut the straight sections to fit the elbows and send the indexed and taped assembly to a welding shop to finish it off. Grind and polish the tube to look like it's made of one piece...
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  #13  
Old 01-25-2020, 03:03 PM
norson norson is offline
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I tend to try improving on the on the stuff I do, so I recognize the issue. My first thought would to build it with better materials so it would be better than the original. Then I ask myself how many years did the original last? Is using the same materials and duplicating the same life span really going to be a problem? How about having the part galvanized to extend its life?
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2020, 03:38 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norson View Post
I tend to try improving on the on the stuff I do, so I recognize the issue. My first thought would to build it with better materials so it would be better than the original. Then I ask myself how many years did the original last? Is using the same materials and duplicating the same life span really going to be a problem? How about having the part galvanized to extend its life?

I bend what I have to and source out pre-bends for jobs that match that.



Pre-bends for a Porsche 901 exh. system -
fab_header_as_orig Porsche 901.jpg


Headers (stainless) made to duplicate bad originals (airplane), using flow forming and hand forming -
Airc headers, in process.jpg


Copper pipe .375 mandrel bent-
.375 copper tube_mandrel bends.jpg


old tired Porsche typ718 chassis ready for cut-and-rebuild (note the one seriously bent main ladder tube)
(no original photos of finished chassis on table )
Porsche 718 chassis _pre_ copy.jpg


Just doing what a small-shop guy does ...
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  #15  
Old 01-25-2020, 10:07 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Ok. Update...

My visit to the stainless steel shop was about as disapointing as it usually gets when I need something, the service is mediocre and not interested.

They had 1.125" tubing. No fittings or elbows, nothing as it is apparently a special size. Take it or leave it.

I thus opted for 1 .25" instead. For this, I got an elbow and a 20deg bend.

The thick end is 1.5", but I could only buy 1m/3ft of that.

Very expensive so I left that.
I will make it myself from sheet.

I am now busy fabricating this manifold pipe out of bigger tubing. I hope it will join to the original 1.125" flanges.

Regards
Bernt.
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  #16  
Old 01-26-2020, 05:43 PM
hillman hillman is offline
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Why can't you make it out of 1" stainless tube easy to get 90 bends and 45 bends available and just expand the ends to suit Any stainless steel welder in the food industry should be able to help, that is, if they want to.
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:12 AM
berntd berntd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillman View Post
Why can't you make it out of 1" stainless tube easy to get 90 bends and 45 bends available and just expand the ends to suit Any stainless steel welder in the food industry should be able to help, that is, if they want to.
1" OD tube ID is too small. The original 1.125" steel tubing was very thin walled ~40mils and so its ID was more than 1".

I am not the designer so I do not want to cause water flow problems.
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2020, 03:13 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Use something like this.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-201...frcectupt=true
That is what I will be doing for my fuel filler pipe most likely.
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2020, 11:46 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Use something like this.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-201...frcectupt=true
That is what I will be doing for my fuel filler pipe most likely.

There you go.... Much better than making it from scratch.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2020, 01:06 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Make it out of copper tubing and fittings. Check out the links below.

Tubing
https://www.petersenproducts.com/Cop...zes-s/1979.htm

Fittings
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Copper-F...8acebcd287432a
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