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  #1  
Old 06-24-2016, 04:15 PM
Scott Turner Scott Turner is offline
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Default Ferrari badge recess help required

ferrari wing.jpg

Hi Guys, I'm doing a repair to the front end of a Ferrari 355. On the front wings, fenders to you American boys there are recesses for badges. The problem I have is that the new right hand wing does not have this recess.
I need a way to either stamp this in or I think it will have to be stamped into a piece of sheet metal then patched into the wing as the frame of the wing limits access on the rear.
Can anyone suggest how I would do this? I have the usual tools you would find in a body repair shop.

Scott
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Old 06-24-2016, 04:32 PM
Kidpaint Kidpaint is offline
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I would think that making the shape with a hammer form would work. Maybe not on the actual wing, but as a part to weld onto the wing. I would suggest asking in the general discussion area for more help
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:03 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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I would make a wooden tool, I prefer Iroko, to fit close to the back of the panel then sculpt the recess into it allowing for material thickness. Fasten it to the back of the panel and tap the shape in from the front. Spend the time on the tool and you'll get a neat job.

Will
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:47 PM
Rick Mullin Rick Mullin is offline
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I have done this several times before on both steel and aluminum Ferrari fenders. I made an aluminum hammer form and created a patch panel in the flat. The panel was about an inch larger than the ultimate desired size. I then made aluminum fill pieces to fit in the recess and around the perimeter of the recess to create a uniform thickness. I then taped them together and ran it through the slip roll to get the correct contour. The thing that you need be concerned about is that it match the emblem. They are different for various Ferraris and the shape changes from part to part. If memory serves me, there is a different part number left to right as well. Since they are ceramic on brass, the shape can vary depending on how they were supported when they were fired. That is why I chose to create the curve in the slip roll so I could custom fit to the badge. With a nice tight trim, a TIG welded butt joint leaves virtually no finish work.
Rick
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:00 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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I would do the same at what Rick has recommended, the area in question is far to big for a hammer form, and would run the risk of major distortion of the rest of the guard. (Fender, Wing)

I have done a similar job on nothing to fancy and no where near the size of your, on a boot motif lock assembly, using a hammer form and it pulled the top curved section of the boot lid out of shape, and then I had to spend a S^%t load of work trying to rectify it.

Good luck with it and be sure to post your progress. A we will be all keen to see how you tackle it.

Cheers John
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:06 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Turner View Post
Attachment 37760

Hi Guys, I'm doing a repair to the front end of a Ferrari 355. On the front wings, fenders to you American boys there are recesses for badges. The problem I have is that the new right hand wing does not have this recess.
I need a way to either stamp this in or I think it will have to be stamped into a piece of sheet metal then patched into the wing as the frame of the wing limits access on the rear.
Can anyone suggest how I would do this? I have the usual tools you would find in a body repair shop.

Scott
Yo Scotty,
I clean off the paint and take a top mould (UK for "mold") using "Devcon" liquid steel and the release agent, along with a tape dam. Sets up in 12hrs or so, then I reverse and make a tape dam and mould of the rear side. Fit the two together, minding the metal thickness (clearance) to get a nice squish when you hit it with the 5 ton (tonne) press.

Alignment is by using the the fastening holes, provided.....?

Quick,Dirty,Effective,Cheap,Handy,Accurate, by my experience.......
though failing the press I give it a good crack with a heavy hammer - never mind that the "die" goes away because it was Q&D to begin with...... ?
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:46 AM
Kabous Kabous is offline
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Kent, how thick would you make the male and female molds?
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Old 06-25-2016, 07:05 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Scott - I have a buddy who does all sorts of things like this with a water jetted die from 6.0mm steel. The outer part becomes the female and the inner the male. The material removed by the waterjet seems to be sufficient for the material clearance.
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  #9  
Old 06-25-2016, 10:29 AM
longyard longyard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Yo Scotty,
I clean off the paint and take a top mould (UK for "mold") using "Devcon" liquid steel and the release agent, along with a tape dam. Sets up in 12hrs or so, then I reverse and make a tape dam and mould of the rear side. Fit the two together, minding the metal thickness (clearance) to get a nice squish when you hit it with the 5 ton (tonne) press.

Alignment is by using the the fastening holes, provided.....?
Scotty, I agree with Kent that this method would probably be your easiest and fastest method to achieve success. I have a photo sequence in my book SHEET METAL FAB for CAR BUILDERS showing Mark Gerisch using this method to make license plate lamp indentations on a 427 Cobra boot. He uses 1/2 Bondo and 1/2 "cat's hair" Bondo to make the dies, but Kent's suggestion of Devcon is what I'd recommend as it is much stronger.
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  #10  
Old 06-25-2016, 11:38 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabous View Post
Kent, how thick would you make the male and female molds?
3-4X the profile of what you are pressing - and adding a bolster of 1/8" aluminum is a big help. I've pressed 14 brass hubcaps using this setup....
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