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  #721  
Old 09-17-2017, 04:18 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Glad you were about to save it Jack

Thought you would have put some sort of coating behind the fender brace before welding it in though.
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  #722  
Old 09-17-2017, 08:34 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I stripped down the damaged area of the right fender and it was worse than I thought. Some hack beat this dent out so viciously, he stretched the metal all out of shape. That's why the body line was half buried in filler in this area. Also, there was a crack in the wheel opening where the impact was and that was brazed up when he installed a hastily bent piece of round stock inside to try to restore the rigidity lost where the crack was. He brazed the rod in too. Wonderful!

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After some serious effort with a cut off wheel, I managed to get the rod out of the wheel opening without doing any further damage to the fender. I'll have to cut this area out and patch it but I won't do that till I have it bolted to the car. I started roughing in with a few different hammers and dollies to smooth out the metal some so I could see exactly where the stretching was the worst. After that, I used the torch to start shrinking. I did one round of shrinking, then some more planishing, then a second round of shrinking. The circle is the area where the crack was brazed.

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After a lot more hammer and dolly work, I've got it pretty close. I'm not going to take it to finished stage because I'll be doing a lot of welding next and that will probably require another round of planishing.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 09-17-2017 at 08:41 PM.
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  #723  
Old 09-17-2017, 08:57 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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If you don't learn what to do with these......

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You'll have a tough time figuring out what to do with these.

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  #724  
Old 09-18-2017, 04:42 AM
petersod petersod is offline
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Jack,

Firstly, thank you for your continued efforts in so clearly documenting what you're doing with this project.

Secondly, that last post is a great reminder of how important it is to master the basics before attempting more advanced techniques.

Thanks again, from Down Under.


Dominic
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  #725  
Old 09-18-2017, 09:41 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Jack
thanks for another fantastic post.
your build is one I like to follow.
I learn a-lot from you just by following your thread.
Thanks
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  #726  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:22 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Nice work dumbass! .....
It's nice to know somebody else says that to themselves...

Seriously, thank you, Jack. I appreciate the overall thread and build, but seeing what tools and equipment you do (and don't) have is appreciated much more.
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  #727  
Old 09-22-2017, 09:42 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I got some welding done on the right fender. I still have to finish up the wheel opening.
I put the original picture in to show how much difference in proportion the 4 1/2" door extension made. We've come a long way. Still a lot to more to do.

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  #728  
Old 09-25-2017, 10:34 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I need some help here. I'm at one of those points where I really could use some power equipment. I will be making the rear bumper for this car soon and don't have access to a reciprocating machine. I'll be using .060" 430 Stainless for a few good reasons; available in mirror polish, somewhat easier to work with than 304 and 303, corrosion resistant, won't go magnetic, weldable, and that's the allow OEM's use for trim. I need to use .060" for strength and so I have enough thickness to polish out any tool marks I might leave behind. I will be making a bumper very similar to what Chip used on his EldoRod.

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I'll have to make it in 5 pieces. The main center bar, left and right inner curves, and left and right outer curves.
I won't have as much crown as the EldoRod because my rear body panel is flatter than that. You can see that below.

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Along the bottom edge I will need about a 3/4" to 1" radiused roll inward. That's where things get tough. If I were making this out of 18ga steel, I would wheel in a little crown and bring the curve into place, then use a radiused die and PU wheel in the bead roller for the radiused lower edge, then use the shrinker along the upper and lower edges to help adjust the curve through the length of the center bar, but I don't think this thick stainless will move for me like that.
I don't have access to a reciprocating machine and don't know anyone nearby that has one.
I could probably beat this thing into submission by hand but it would take me two weeks and I'd end up with forearms like Popeye.
Any suggestions? Kent?Wray? Kerry? Is anyone out there with a reciprocating machine within driving distance of Cleveland, Ohio?
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 09-25-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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  #729  
Old 09-25-2017, 10:56 AM
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Superleggera Superleggera is offline
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This is the Cadillac at Boyd's (in @1997?) -- only construction photo I took of the bumper itself. Project was never finished and I do not remember the details. Someone else finished it later and then Chip redid it again in current form.

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  #730  
Old 09-25-2017, 11:43 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Type 430 won't turn magnetic as it is already magnetic when you get it. We use it so the fridge doors will stick closed.

The mirror finish is not as nice on the 430 as the 304, but still pretty good.

We had a fellow trying to pound out a bowl with a piece of 20 ga s/s at the last meet and man was he having a hard time.

Good luck with this. I am curious to how it will be accomplished.
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