#11
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Here is my first attempt at hammering .032 steel sheet around 1/2" rod and welding the seam: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=1118
I'm pretty satisfied for a 1st attempt! It was certainly very satisfying to make. Not sure how I got a gap at the smaller diameter, I thought I cut the part straight. I'm sure I need to figure out hammering techniques but there were times when I felt like I couldn't create more curve in a flatter area no matter how much I hammered.
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Dan M. |
#12
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That's not bad for a first go! Yes, the shape is so small and so tight in the amount of bending required, I'm sure it was a challenge as the metal started to get harder from being worked.
What I'd suggest is perhaps make the cone a little longer than the finished item. That way, you could trim the cone's sides "parallel" to straighten up the sides before welding and then trim the lengths to the finished size you require. Also, perhaps you should get a solid cone turned up as a mandrel on which to hammer and finish the final form. Heat could be used effectively here too...
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Manny Remember that the best of men, are only men at best. |
#13
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metal manny: Thanks, I will follow your advice on the next one.
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Dan M. |
#14
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Take a look at piping nozzles, used for cake decorating.
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Karl Heinz |
#15
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I have a pair of Kraeuter round nose pliers that are handy for this sort of work. You might try a smaller round rod to form the small end since there is always a bit of springback, especially as the material becomes work hardened. You also could try tapping it closed between a hammer and anvil. (You could tack the parts of the seams that already fit, before closing the gap at the small end. When making new thing my rule is "If it works, it's right".)
I often bend things however I can to easily close the seam, then correct the shape after welding. A mandrel would make the finish shaping simple if you have access to a lathe. Thank you for the compliment on the light fixture. The main part of the tree is forged pipe, so it's all hollow for wiring. My main business is as a blacksmith, so I have a blacksmithing power hammer and I've made some dies to work pipe quickly.
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Lewis Meyer Falls City Ironworks Louisville, KY |
#16
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finished making most of the cones
I ended up purchasing a 316SS conical weld reducer that was pretty much the shape I was looking for but I didn't end up using it because I need 15 and it would have cost a lot and hand forming them went quicker than I thought. I did end up using this cone as a mandrel though!(photo in album)
I settled on forming from .032 sheet metal. I ended up realizing it was easiest to simply hand bend the sheet around the conical mandrel most of the way, and then hammer the edges to finish it off. Welding the seam was pretty questionable but it's good enough, and I can position the seams to face the ceiling so any imperfections aren't visible. I added a few more photos to the album if anyone wants to take a look. http://www.allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=1118
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Dan M. |
#17
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Quote:
You got it just right, Dan. One more technique in your tool box .... Yeehaw!
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#18
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Success!
Always good to see.
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Lewis Meyer Falls City Ironworks Louisville, KY |
#19
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A few pics and videos of the light fixture 99% done
Here are a few pics of the fixture almost complete: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=1118
some videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jShupCS3y9w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtqZSXFjdlI I got ahead of myself and installed the sockets and wiring before powdercoating and now I'm concerned about the powdercoat baking damaging the wiring inside. I'm thinking of using some type of dye or oil to finish it off instead, but this will be a first for me also. Thanks everyone for all the help!
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Dan M. Last edited by Diydan; 12-03-2018 at 11:47 AM. |
#20
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Looks good. I use gun blueing on a lot of my interior work. You can get a small bottle of Birchwood Casey anywhere that sells guns and ammo. I usually follow up with a lacquer as a rusty preventative, but waxes work well too. Black shoe polish or Johnson's paste wax is fine.
I think the pictures I posted earlier in the thread show a gun blued finish that had been highlighted after blueing with 320 grit paper. Your piece isn't textured so I'd skip the sanding. The metal has to be scrupulously clean to get even blueing. Do a section at a time and wipe the blueing off as soon as it's done its work. Look forward to seeing what the finished piece.
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Lewis Meyer Falls City Ironworks Louisville, KY |
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