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  #81  
Old 10-23-2014, 06:57 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Time to start a bit of work on the firewall and floor from the 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee donor. Having pulled out most of the damage from the impact into this corner from the Harley rider hitting it, wanted to see if I could get it any smoother.


This was the extent of the damage originally at the firewall to toe board seam that you might remember. The firewall/floor is upside down so you are looking from the bottom down.


The crease in the toe board.


These are the tools I have recently bought to smooth out the panel. This is all pretty new to me as learnt my welding trade in the structural steel industry. That and blacksmithing doesn't deal with light thin sheet metal. Even when I worked building aerofoil impellers etc, the parts I made were formed in huge presses, so very little hand forming.


Using the slapping file with the dolly behind it, can see how the imprints from the serrations are pushing down the high spots while the dolly brings up the low ones.


You just keep at it until the low spots also show the marks.


With a very light sand with some 120 grit, it is looking much better. I went a bit further after this shot was taken until I was happy enough with it.


Need to smooth out the firewall as well from the same damage.


Was a bit harder due to the pressings as well.


I have well over 200 spot weld holes to fill so need to scrape off the sound deadening panels so the rubber/ bitumen doesn't melt and contaminant the welds.


I noticed the right side had been pulled back as well from the impact. You can see the difference in the jack length that the left one is longer before any tension has been used. The left one is just there to stop the whole lot just twisting. I jacked the right side until both were the same after the tension was released. Got it right on in the end.


The rear most part of the floor had this pressed in which I didn't want. I will be turning up a flange right along where the floor was cut so it can be welded to the rear wall.


A couple of hits with a dead blow did was I was expecting and showed how much extra material I need to work out. Just hamming away at it would only stretch it more so it needs to be shrunk.


Going to try out a shrinking disc for the first time. Not sure if they are made to reduce this amount of material though. They make friction without thinning the steel. Then you quickly used a wet rag or compressed air to cool it and cause the shrinking. Here is a demo of the same one I bought. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPFUz-gZLqo


Well it reduced the excess noticeably but not enough. Think this was just too much for a shrinking disc. Least I am learning what it is capable of. Might have been better to start with a puckering bar. Have to make one and give that a go one day.


I then used a propane torch to reduce it further but still had a bit left. So cut a slot with the jigsaw and you can see how it closed up along the edge. I welded this closed and the heat from that drew it in even more.


Did one more slot and sitting much flatter. I had also welded up the spot weld holes to help with the shrinking too. Just needs a bit more dressing up and should be good after the flange is folded I think.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 06:39 PM.
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  #82  
Old 10-23-2014, 06:59 PM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
....
Hope that helps......
It does, thanks. Down the road for me someday is a Kent White hammer kit, would love to build my frame this way, instead of a plain 3 member. I used 5/16 4x7 for my wheel, because it was at the scrappers that day.
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  #83  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:52 AM
bimmer1980 bimmer1980 is offline
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Marcus--I'm really enjoying the thread!!!! I really think this "heavy" steel metal shaping is very helpful.

Lot's of quality work. I like the end result! Too bad you have to cover up all that fine work with a body!!

Keep at it, I'm looking forward to the next update!

Brad
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  #84  
Old 10-24-2014, 10:27 AM
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Default Me too!

I want to add my thanks to the others. Really enjoying this thread.
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Shrinking using a stump:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HAFndATFo4&t=7s

Making a reverse using a stump:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PlF1BoMCQI

Circular Truss E-Wheel
http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=15419
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  #85  
Old 10-25-2014, 04:30 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Glad you guys enjoyed it and the administrators thought it was worth while too.
Afraid the 'good' part of my skill set is now over as bit of a novice when it comes to body working skills. Hopefully other beginners like me might still learn a tip or two along the way as my skills improve. Might as well show how I went about it even though there are much better examples on here.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 10-25-2014 at 06:22 AM.
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  #86  
Old 10-25-2014, 06:18 AM
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Dressed it up the best I could so it was better, but not happy with the part closest to the oval hole as has pin holes from welding up the holes that were there.


I cut out that section and replaced it. Welded from the top of one tack and used a short stitch weld to the top of the next one as get less pin holes this way I have found. The top of the patch has been curved to reduce the distortion you get from using a right angled corner. Less concentration of heat this way.


To remove the same pressing on the other side, I simple cut each side of it and then flatten it out. The excess went under the rest of the metal.


Cut the excess away and then welded up the slots. This was much quicker and much less distortion than the other side.


I used the same technique to shorten these ridges as well.


Had a go at hammering around the end of the pressings to make them round like the other end of them.


Now I want to tip a 15 mm flange all the way along the end of the cut floor so it can then be plug welded to the back of the rear wall of the cab. So I grabbed some 35 mm thick chip board that I had cut out when I fitted the new kitchen sink during the renovations inside the house. Just ran a pencil along the floor and then cut along the line using a jigsaw.


Used some sash clamps to fasten it over the end of the floor leaving 15 mm sticking out. I was fortunate that this all needed to be straight. You could curve it though if thinner board was used.


Started in the middle of the straight sections and worked outwards. Only tipping it a small way keeping it even. Clamps were in the way to tip the whole length at once, so did it in sections.


On the outer corners used this more domed head to reduce hammer marks.


This end was used along the straight sections until it was tipped over to about 45*.


Used a flatter hammer to do the last of it. You will always have some puckering on the inside corners where the metal needs to gather. Manufactures some times reduce the size of the flange at the corners to reduce this if needed.


All worked out well and using the board made sure the floor did not change its shape when bending at all the curves.


As the board was a bit short, the last part was bent over separately.


Started to weld up over 200 pilot holes from where the spot welds were drilled out.


To grind down the welds I use a flap disc. No bluing of the metal this way so shows less heat introduced. To get the most out of the discs I grind the edge away to get rid of the worn away paper on the ends. I have both grinders running at the same time and bevel the edge like shown.
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Marcus
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-01-2017 at 06:42 PM.
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  #87  
Old 10-25-2014, 10:32 AM
Doug M Doug M is offline
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Your skill level in the frame building is in the excellent category. Your attention to detail and your forethought If carried into the "tin bashing" will help all of us see what it takes to excel at our own projects. As with all of us we have greater skill in some tasks, lesser skill in others. You apologize about your lesser skill at shaping the body then start your body build with patience and detail us lesser humans need to learn from.

I'll try to apply the patience and attention to detail to my builds.
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  #88  
Old 10-25-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Now I want to tip a 15 mm flange all the way


You will always have some puckering on the inside corners where the metal needs to gather. Manufactures some times reduce the size of the flange at the corners to reduce this if needed.
Look forward to every post! Curious about the inside corner. Wondering if one were to start there and work out both ways to the straight sections.
Would it ease the puckering? Not being critical because I honestly don't know the answer.
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  #89  
Old 10-25-2014, 12:59 PM
VetteMemphis VetteMemphis is offline
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Marcus, I can't thank you enough for having the generosity with your time to share your ups and downs with the rest of us.

We're not all in the same place on the learning curve and your curve serves to inspire and encourage those of us who really need it.

Thanks again.

And as others have said before me, this build is amazing in its detail and execution.
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  #90  
Old 10-26-2014, 04:31 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonhog View Post
Look forward to every post! Curious about the inside corner. Wondering if one were to start there and work out both ways to the straight sections.
Would it ease the puckering? Not being critical because I honestly don't know the answer.
I think it does work better that way and should have had the clamp some where else so I could have done it. I went from the middle out on some of the other bends and saw the difference.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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