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Old 04-25-2020, 08:04 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Default Welding, then planishing

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O/A welding a patch in steel.

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Had to thin down and split filler wire to match.

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Planishing flattens the weld and levels distortion.

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Cannot use abrasives much because age and rust have not left much to work with.
1930? Bluebird.
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Old 04-25-2020, 09:43 PM
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Nice save!
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Old 04-26-2020, 06:36 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Clever, young man!
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:13 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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How did you split the filler wire Kent?
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:20 PM
NDM NDM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
How did you split the filler wire Kent?


My guess is he smashed it flat then cut it.
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Old 04-27-2020, 09:00 PM
keith keith is offline
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That is very thin. So what do you think the welding wire dia was after you split it?

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Old 04-28-2020, 10:53 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Thanks, Matt!
Thanks, Will! (old man who Knows Clever by heart!)
Chris, I split it with av snips. ... (aviation snips) by hand...

Norman, yes, I flattened it real good and thin in the Air Hammer, then snipped up the length, sometimes dividing it in half, sometimes thirds.
Keith, Yup - .013 to.019 depending on the area. Wire dia? ...well ... um .... started with .063 wire, mashed down to .015 and 5/32 wide, then split - so ... .020 when halved? - .015 when "thirded"??

I just go by the "feel" of the flat when mashing in the Hammer, though damn it gets HOT! ... and hard .... and springy.


But it is SO NICE to have the right thickness for the job "on hand." ( )
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:04 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Kent another question, was the filler wire something like annealed mechanics wire? Is there a reason (other than not having any on hand) that you wouldn't have used MIG wire (.023 or .030)? I've heard it claimed the er70s-6 is harder and will result in a harder gas weld but I can't tell that when I have used it. Seems to planish the same as TIG er70s-2. Haven't used much mechanics wire(the bendy stuff) to really be able to tell what the difference would be. Is there a difference? Or were you just trying to match wire diameter to base metal thickness?

Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:42 PM
NDM NDM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Thanks, Matt!
Thanks, Will! (old man who Knows Clever by heart!)
Chris, I split it with av snips. ... (aviation snips) by hand...

Norman, yes, I flattened it real good and thin in the Air Hammer, then snipped up the length, sometimes dividing it in half, sometimes thirds.
Keith, Yup - .013 to.019 depending on the area. Wire dia? ...well ... um .... started with .063 wire, mashed down to .015 and 5/32 wide, then split - so ... .020 when halved? - .015 when "thirded"??

I just go by the "feel" of the flat when mashing in the Hammer, though damn it gets HOT! ... and hard .... and springy.


But it is SO NICE to have the right thickness for the job "on hand." ( )
You are a Jedi master, but might I make a suggestion that may work as well for smashing? The first thought that crossed my mind when I saw it was running the wire through a motorized bead roller die set. Constant pressure and no heat. Did 5 passes but lost the 4th sample, started with 1/16 ali 1100 rod

Pass1, 5/128 in or 1.03mm
Pass2, 3/128 in or .57mm
Pass3, 1/64 in or .46mm (forgot to tighten the dies more)
Pass4 lost
Pass 5 1/128 in or .25mm.

I have a nice little ribbon now. Great experiment.
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:19 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
Kent another question, was the filler wire something like annealed mechanics wire? Is there a reason (other than not having any on hand) that you wouldn't have used MIG wire (.023 or .030)? I've heard it claimed the er70s-6 is harder and will result in a harder gas weld but I can't tell that when I have used it. Seems to planish the same as TIG er70s-2. Haven't used much mechanics wire(the bendy stuff) to really be able to tell what the difference would be. Is there a difference? Or were you just trying to match wire diameter to base metal thickness?

Sorry for all the questions.

Hi Chris,
Although I have soft mechanics wire ( and 304 ss lockwire) on hand, I used the 70S6.
I don't have steel MIGwire on hand, only aluminum.... but I do keep a LOT of filler alloys on hand - 40? 50?

Sometimes I use 4130 on mild steel auto sheetmetal.

!!! ---> I do not quench my metalwork with water, at all, ever. I let it cool slowly so I keep it workable - even if I nudge it with a little heat - adds "plasticity" to the steel when working it. I did a Lot of steel bodywork in my first 10 years.

Sometimes the alloy of the body steel is more akin to the mechanics wire alloy - 1930's Chev-Cad-GM, for instance. (Though I probably use RG45 more often on those.)
On the 1930's Chryslers I like using RG60 or 70S2/70D2.
For Cord, Auburn, Duesey ... Er70S6 - or 70S2/70D2.
Early Fords - Er70S6 or 4130. (There was a car known as the "chrome-molybdenum car." )


After alloy (gas filler alloy = tig filler alloy = mig filler alloy, most of the time - when choosing For Mild Steel) I choose filler diameter/thickness.

Metal is metal. Match the alloy, then the thickness. Tig can weld alloys that gas cannot. So, some tig rods are not useable for gas. I probably would not use MIG flux-core with tig or gas - but.... then again.... there may come a situation ...

I may use stick-arc rod for tig welding gray cast iron -(like welding a crankshaft in the car). I can tig weld, gas, weld, or arc weld gray cast - and NOT use NiRod at all. And the welds are workable - file-able. Filler alloy choice is of primary importance. Filler rod form is secondary.

(But - my experience may be a little different from most because of my early training. I learned from many skilled old time craftsmen from Lear Aviation, Boeing, Hudson, Rolls, Brewster, etc.etc.etc... I did what they told me and learned from each experience, and took notes ).


After testing my filler alloy choice (weld and hammer it out) I fine-tune the filler thickness. Sometimes that needs a little reduction, so I simply adjust my filler rod thickness with the Air Hammer. Sometimes I just thin the round rod to flat and that makes the necessary difference. Dunno, but it sure makes the difference needed.



- that is all -

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Last edited by crystallographic; 04-29-2020 at 09:49 AM.
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