#1
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55 Chevy Cowl repair
Well, after media blasting we have some pitting that was deeper than originally thought...
With so much widespread "issues", let's see if we can come close to duplicating this.. Taking a paper pattern.. Here laid out on some 19 gauge AKDQ... Trimming... But I always prefer a test sample first... this done on the tipping wheel Step dies on the Lennox add the final detail... Need to fine tune the dimensions, but this looks close. I think I'll make up some dies for the Lennox for better consistency on the good piece..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#2
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Time to make some dies for the Lennox, here fine tuning the fit..
The outside corners will get some steel added for a sharper detail in the bends.. The 19 ga steel is a good snug fit for the band saw cuts... The front edge of the panel will be tipped prior to running it through the Lennox, the tipped flange will act as a guide in the slot in the lower die.. Another test run using a straight piece of scrap Dimensions looking much better. Enough practice, starting to tip the flange on the good piece.. The tipping wheel on the bead roller bends about 30 degrees and the remaining is done manually with the hand tipping tool.. Flange tipped, some kick shrinking to get the right contour, and we're about ready for the Lennox.. As Kyle was off tonight we'll wait until he returns so we can have two people feeding this long piece through the machine..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#3
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As we found with some of the practice pieces, when you try to shove metal too much into a hole it tends to pull in from the edges.
So to fix that we'll make up a new bottom die to form the ramp fold fully, then change back to the above die to form the step.. The down side to using phenolic is that it gives a bit where it doesn't make sharp creases well or short reverse folds either. The initial practice pieces wouldn't fold the step down flat, so a wrap of steel was added to the top die to better persuade the step flat... The upper die holder helps keep the wrapped steel in place. That did the trick, step is laying down nice and flat.. The front flange hangs over just a bit too much, some hammer action will bring it back in place. Real pleased with how well this turned out.. Some of the practice scraps..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#4
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looks great! some useful info about making the dies a 2 step process instead of just a one! how will you add the dimples were the screws are located?
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Cody Lunning |
#5
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Likely a hammer form, a socket with a warranty, and a BFH.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#6
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Very nice job there Robert.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#7
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Very nice 'stuff' there Robert. You are a very crafty gentleman and the postings are terrific and very informative.. How's that new 'wheel' doing?
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Will |
#8
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Can you explain the metal strip inserts? Just a quick easy way to "Beef up" what will be a fast wear(ing) surface?
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My build: www.1932auburnsedan.com |
#9
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Thanks for the comments guys!
Andy, the Phenolic is classified as a GRP material, similar to fiberglass stock. It is rather hard, but put it up against steel and it does have some "give". So in order to have better, more "crisp" bend details, the steel added in the corners helps to overcome that issue. It's less of a "wearing" issue and more of something to overcome the compression seen in using the material. If you price the stuff new, you'd find out you're not likely to run out and buy a 1" thick sheet of it tomorrow. I just happen to have a limited qty of it that a former employer was going to dispose of. At the time, I had no idea what I would use it for, just knew I was going to take care of the disposal for them.. Now twenty years later it has worked well for me on a couple of occasions in making dies for the Lennox. On a positive note, I can cut out, drill, insert steel corners, and sand details in a set of dies in about 5 to 10 minutes time, slightly more depending on complexity. To reproduce the same in steel would likely take four times as long, if not longer. (I don't have a water jet) So hands down it is my logical choice for a one-off or limited production run for a detail. If I was doing a larger production run to justify the time involved or had a customer that could afford the cost associated with me making steel tooling for their project, that's what I would have used, and that cost would very well have produced a more precise end product. This did produce something more precise than the inconsistency of wavering lines using a tipping wheel.....call it a happy medium between those two processes if you will. So if any of you guys have adapted a similar product for use as dies, please share the details. Gives us all another go to for our bag of tricks..
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 06-04-2016 at 08:19 PM. |
#10
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I could imagine that solid WPC (wood plastic compound) would work quite well for this type of die. WPC is normally used for decking board. It is cheap and readily available at home depot or elsewhere. Unfortunately I can not report on any personal experience with it yet cause I am still waiting for my Pullmax. I think it could be worth a try though.
Just my 2 cents. Cheers Andy |
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