#1
|
|||
|
|||
Re: 1/4 scale Steel "41 Willys
I found some nice shots on the Willys in Metalman Sweden's post. Can anyone clarify the difference in the edge treatment that Per compares to Italian cars? I'm not ready for the trunk lid yet, but with the frustration I'm having around the door jambs sometimes it helps to break away and the deck lid is something that could be done independent of the cab dimensions.
Quote:
__________________
Eugene |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I think the reason for several pieces is they are to big to wheel without help and simpler for a beginner. Some pieces have hard shapes to make and are simpler to make in small pieces. If scrap is made, it is not the whole piece.
__________________
Eddie |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Eddie, I think you are correct as to the size for Per to do by himself, but I got the impression that it had something to do with the inner/ outer edge and that it does not fold over like most skins. I've have some leeway, but I always try to replicate the original. A little later in the thread Steve Hamilton demonstrates using a tipping wheel on a Plymouth trunk lid. I believe that is a 1" 90* lip turned down and then a smaller hem turned 180*.
__________________
Eugene Last edited by Reno; 01-13-2019 at 11:20 PM. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Hi there!
I have not been aboard for years but heard that you had some questions about the diffrent kind of ways to attach the skin to the innerstructure. Most cars I have working with have a inner structure with just a lip who the skin is just wrapped around. Some Italian cars from the 30s to 60s have another design at this detail. They have a 90 degree bend all around the inner structure and also the skin have a 90 degree bend. That means that the skin is just slight larger than the innerstructure and slide over it, then it is spotwelded together, no fold over or wrap is done. Good or bad? Well... good is that IF the inner structure fits perfect in the opening the gap will be perfect too! Bad is there are VERY limited chances to adjust the unit to fit perfect if the gap is a bit off. At " normal" doors, hoods and so on it is pretty easy to adjust the gap with hammer and dolly work, both plus and minus if needed. Hope you understand my way to try to explain. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the clarification Per. I can see where that method would have to be very accurate. Since I'm just making a model I will probably use the conventional method.
Your photo documentation has been a big help since I am doing this from a 1/25 scale model and photographs. Your shots of the inner trunk are the only ones I have ever seen from a steel car. Thanks again.
__________________
Eugene |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|