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  #21  
Old 01-09-2013, 11:04 AM
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I forgot. Check if there is a flat lower anvil also. The Vocor one did not sonI made one myself. Is relatively not cheap to have it hardened.

Here an example of a panel I wheeled with this wheel

Grt

Frank
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2013, 12:07 PM
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The 5 x KENDRICK / RANALAH PATTERN ANVILS looks like a nice set to me
70mm wide and 83mm dia. equals 2.76" wide and 3.27" diameter, so these should be about just as good as a set of 3x3".

The EDWARDS PATTERN ANVILS also look nice if you can afford them, these are 3.5 x 3.5".

I don't know anything about the quality of these anvils, maybe someone else has experience with them?
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  #23  
Old 01-09-2013, 12:18 PM
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Thanks Frank.

Nice work Frank!

The less I can get away with spending the better Frank, but I do want to end up with a good quality wheel so I need to make sure I don't cut corners on quality too much.

I've decided to build the frame, need to locate a good top wheel and anvils in the UK. As Kerry has recommended I will go for at least 75mm anvils. I've seen some 88mm ones being sold, is it the case bigger is better?

I want a wheel for general automotive bodywork mainly. A big part of my P1800 project is to lighten the car so I was thinking of doing this with some of the outer panels made from fibreglass but I'm also thinking of making some from aluminium. But I also want to make parts for other projects from steel, like door skins, wing repairs etc.

So size wise what size throat do people recommend? 24" big enough or am I better off with 26".

We're going to have the first pass at designing the frame tonight. I want to get it laser cut, 24" would mean I could cut it from 1m x 1m x 6mm plate where as 26" would need to come from 1200mm wide sheet.
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  #24  
Old 01-09-2013, 01:07 PM
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I don't know about the width. Maybe other guys can tell you more about that. I have approx 70 mm I think and that works for me. But the first thing I had to do is grind back the support posts where the axle of the lower anvils lay in. When doing some tight radius it can happen that the pannel hits those posts.



I also like the rubberband Lazze is talking about. Just cut up a innertube of a large tire or trucktire and you have an impressive bending machine.

The throat width also depends on the panels your planning to make. I think maybe half of the maximum length of the panels you want to make. It may also effects the stiffness. Not only the distance between the anvils (as seen from the front) but also the alignment between the axle of the anvil and the upper wheel (as seen from above). As I understand it can happen that the upper wheel is at the front of the lower anvil when wheeling in one direction and that this changes wheeling in the other direction. I guess that's why Lazze's wheel is wider at the back than at the front. But be warned, I'm a newbe. Maybe some more experienced guys here can comment on this.

Kind regards,

Frank
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  #25  
Old 01-09-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by debije View Post
The 5 x KENDRICK / RANALAH PATTERN ANVILS looks like a nice set to me
70mm wide and 83mm dia. equals 2.76" wide and 3.27" diameter, so these should be about just as good as a set of 3x3".

The EDWARDS PATTERN ANVILS also look nice if you can afford them, these are 3.5 x 3.5".

I don't know anything about the quality of these anvils, maybe someone else has experience with them?
Thanks Rob. He only has the Edwards in stock so they maybe my best option.
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  #26  
Old 01-09-2013, 01:12 PM
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Would a small foot operate hydraulic ram to lift and lower the anvil be any good or not enough control?
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2013, 02:24 PM
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Rough sketch of what I'm thinking. A mate is also having a go at a design, knowing him it will be much more professional than mine which was drawn with the aid of a glass, tape measure and my phone as a straight edge.
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2013, 03:52 PM
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I think most people here prefer an E-wheel with a top adjuster, that is what I will be building in the next couple of months.

There are a few problems with using a hydraulic ram, first you dont get much control, second it can rotate so you need to find a way to stop it from doing that.

I would go with either an adjuster like Kerry uses on his E-wheels, or a dovetail adjuster, that is if you decide to change to a top adjuster ewheel.

If you want a bottom adjuster, you could use an air or hydraulic ram as a guide combined with something to keep it from rotating and use an threaded rod underneath to lift and raise. A friend of mine built his E-wheel this way and it seems to work well.
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2013, 04:22 PM
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Cheers.

The reason I went for the lower adjuster was that I'm only 5'9". I did think a top adjuster would be easier to use, also easier to design and make as well. I can easily change the design to a top adjuster.
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:47 PM
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This is a Good Discussion. I totally understand Fees associated with Shipping outside of what we have control of. The Fees Suck, In the USA we don't pay taxes on most items like the items I sell. I buy what is Affordable but I don't ever sacrifice Quality. Justin in the UK ripped my Products off when I still worked at the last place, but at least he Copied a Good Product. I see he does not Guarantee Concentric Bearing Journals though. The Chinese ripped off the cheapest manufacturer, and they wonder why there stuffs junk.

2 Points I have to comment on yet then I'm done.

1 We Sell Wheel sets at a discounted price for those of you only wanting Anvils, and we cut almost any Bearing Journal you want.

2 P.S.I is a Big Concern. Take a Look at Our 2x3 Wide Tracks, they are the same profiles as Our 3x3's, we just took half an Inch off the edges. Having the Bigger Contacts is an Advantage.
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