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Tin Snips
Hi All,
Probably one of the first tools you will pick up as you begin to fool around with metal is the humble tin snips. Again a few simple tips which generally someone shows you makes a job so much easier and they never seem to be written down anywhere. Now there are lots of different types straight cranked curved etc. I'm not going to cover that here just a few tips to help if you've just started. Left hand / Right hand The way I was taught in the way distant past if the top cutting edge was on the left the snips were left handed and the same with the right top cutting edge on the right. Now this is not for which ever hand you favour more for which paticular way you cut the metal. The next tips really teaches you to master the tin snips. Now when making a cut I always trim next to the cut line first generally leaving a 1/8th edge. The reason for this is the snips cut shear and stretch all at the same time so by reducing the load all the stresses transfer to the smaller piece and you end up with a part with no buckling or stretching on the edge. The last tip is cutting a staight line this rule is so simple when I show people they are amazed how their cutting skill improves instantly. When you cut it is absolutely imperative that you place the tip of the snips exactly on the line each cut taking care not to close them fully. doing this will give you an edge you can put a ruler up against with no gaps and a dead straight cut. Now if you didn't know these little tips go try them you'll be amazed. Cheers, Ash.
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Ashley Briggs |
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Nice explanation Ash.
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Bill People will do things that nobody else will...... |
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Ash, great information. Like most things there is more to a simple tool than people are aware of.
One extra hint is to tip the snip's upper blade slightly aware from the "chip". This offset allows the sheared material clearance at the shear point. Try both ways perfectly vertical and slight angle. There will be much less force required angling the snips. This is not my discovery, I got smacked in the ear 38 years by a journeyman sheet metal shop foreman watching me struggle with some big shears.
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Rick Mammel |
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It's great to get some really basic information like this. A lot of us are still working our way up the learning curve. Another great resource for this subject is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAOQ...eature=related
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Byron Invention is the mother of necessity. |
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If you can eyeball your power sheared rough cut about 3/16” to ¼” from your final cut scribe line when you final cut the metal will curl off like in the photo, too narrow and the curl will swing into your cut, too wide and it gets harder to cut. I like cutting smaller blanks with the snips under the panel, it gives me a much better view of the scribe line. If your cutting 16 gauge or a bunch of 18 gauge keep oiling your snip pivots with spray oil, it makes a big difference. 16 gauge and even 14 gauge can be cut easier if a helper grabs the curl with a vise grip and keeps constant pressure pulling it away from the snips. Give me a Uni-shear, left & right hand snips and some extra strong glasses and I'll cut out blanks all day long. ~ John Buchtenkirch
a snip 15.jpg a snip 18.jpg a snip 17.jpg a snip 93.JPG
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John Last edited by John Buchtenkirch; 12-05-2012 at 03:03 AM. |
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If you notice, John is using his snips upside down *gasp, the horror, oh no* not to worry folks, that method is an easy way to see short lines where normally the upper blade would cover it.
Also, I prefer a scribe line when I am cutting, it is inherently more accurate than a sharpie. Many folk would Dykem the panel first so the scribe line would show up better too. Keep the joints tight in the pivot area, this is key in a good running pair of snips. They are tin snips, not wire cutters. I have seen notches in them from repeated trimming of the MIG wire, because they were within reach. I have tons more, but this is a good start. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
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Byron, thanks for linking to my YouTube Video...... yep that's me...
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Bill People will do things that nobody else will...... |
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keep them coming. great thread!
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Brent Click |
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Great information as always!
As a new, aspiring metalshaper, I have a cheap set of snips and would like to get myself a set that actually work. Is there a particular brand or features that I should look at?
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Josh Wilson "If you're not living on the edge then you're just taking up space" |
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Hi All,
Marty I use markers as it's a definite no no to use a scriber on aircraft work. When something goes bang in an aeroplane it's a wee bit harder to pull over to the kerb. With the marker I actually work on one edge of the marker so you get an even more accurate line than a scriber. This thread is cool with the input from all the guys. After thirty odd years of thumping metal a lot of these little tips is just instinctive and a natural reflex. But to put these little tricks down on paper so to speak takes a bit of thinking. Cheers, Ash.
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Ashley Briggs |
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