#12
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I would try doing it the way you had it by clamping on the top , however instead of cutting the material to size at the corners , I would actually start with more material .
Then take a vice grip clamping on the additional material below the finished area , and while pulling down strike the material over the edge using a soft hammer or a wood corking tool and ecourage it over the edge going back and forth while also changing positions with the vice grip . You also may have to come up with an aid to help pull the vice grip . Also if you need to anneal it the best way is to heat it it to a red state and quench with the coldesr water you have available as this will give you the best results . Good luck and tell us how it works .By the way I can already tell you it will so dont be afraid to use this method .
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Dan Pate |
#13
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Quote:
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When I press the sides down, the corners form a natural tuck and a large one at that. I am not sure I am going to be able to get that all shrunk down at once, but until I try, I guess I'll never know . Thanks. I'll let you know how I turn out.
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Mike Last edited by BrassBuilder; 12-26-2011 at 09:51 PM. |
#14
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I actually do have one of those hammers and was using it on the steel attempt. I may have to round the edge off a bit though. I noticed it was fairly sharp and left a lot of dents.
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Mike Last edited by BrassBuilder; 12-26-2011 at 09:51 PM. |
#15
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For annealing copper, I've read suggestions on doing it two ways: 1. Red hot and let naturally cool. 2. Red hot and dunk in water. I've been doing it both ways although this morning, I switched over to dunking in water. Thanks
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Mike |
#16
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One other question:
After annealing, should I be cleaning the copper between annealings? I noticed that there gets to be a heavy black coating on the copper (I'm using a propane torch to heat it up.) Today, I used a brass wire brush to clean the black off. Do I need to pickle it or anything?
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Mike |
#17
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When pickled all the oxidation is removed. Then use a soft brass wire brush,and soapy water. Your work will come up bright and shiney. Pickle brand for copper and brass Sparex#2 ( Sodium Bisulphate) Substitutes In a pinch, a swimming pool additive called Ph Plus or a compararable product can be used as a pickle. It has the same active ingredient as Sparex. ( the information on Sparex is from a book called the complete metalsmith by Tim McCreight) A very good book. |
#18
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There is no need to quench after heating to gray color to very faint red color. The quench process is only to stop the annealing process at a certian point of temper. Or quench to stop the annealing from moving to a part that you don't want annealed.
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The Rod Doctor, Richard Crees |
#19
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I was at the shop today and hammered out a peice quick to show you what I was talking about.
I picked a peice of drop for a hammerform and rounded the edges. Then I cut a peice of 19 ga. steel. I marked off the center.... Then I stretched the center with a ballpeen hammer. This was quick and rough since I don't plan on using the peice.... Then I flattened out the center in the press. You could use your vice if you don't have a press. I planished it in my wheel with the hammerform. Here is what I ended up with. The edges are started over, and you have less material to shrink this way. I did no shrinking to this point.
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
#20
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I don't have an english wheel either. It is on the "to-do" list. But I need to build a miniature one for 1/8 scale body panels. I am really appreciating all the advice. I'm going to mess with it some more tomorrow morning. Once I get a handle on shrinking and stretching metal, I should be able to make anything.
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Mike |
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