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  #11  
Old 02-08-2016, 12:37 PM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Mike, thanks for sharing all that you have and hopefully do in the future.

While watching the Eastwood paper pattern video, I wasn't sure why you were taking such pains to mark the beginning of the curve multiple times.

This was an eye opener for me, count me among those who weren't previously aware of light lines. Your explanation preceding it makes perfect sense.

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Originally Posted by MotoMike43 View Post
... people dont know or have never heard of light lines / understand what it really means....
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2016, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
Mike, nice professionally done video. I do the paper patterns with the magnets and fingers cut just like you do but never would use a radius gauge. Once I have the paper fingers lying flat on the panel I dust coat them with fast drying black Krylon. Yes, all my magnets do have many coats of Krylon on them. When I lay my paper pattern on the sheet I can tell by the un-painted parts of the fingers how deep to pull the shrinks plus the width of the un-painted paper gives you a pretty good idea of how much to shrink & where. I mark ¾” out from where the un-painted portion of the finger stops because I learned at Scott Knight’s class that thumb nail dies will shrink ¾” out in front of where you stop going into the panel.

I also mark blank cutting lines with pin-striping tape and sometimes even use flexible magnetic guides for pin-stripers but again I just dust coat them with dark Krylon. I only need the accuracy of a scribe line when I’m joining 2 panels together. ~ John Buchtenkirch
You are correct. Thumb nail dies do shrink in front of the formed tuck but 3/4" is not a standard #. All thumb nail dies are different and you must learn your sets individually. You can see the effected zone in front of the tuck. It forms a shadow and then lifts the panel directly in front of that. That will ultimately become your light line. You need to make test panels for each set of dies. Draw a straight line on the panel and run shrinks up to that line and hit the mark 100% accurate. Then look at the panel with a reflection and mark the raised spot just in front of your original mark. Measure the distance between your stopping point and the rise. I have sets as small as 1/8" and up too 5/8". I know from this when I pull in my initial shrinks that I must stop my shrink this set measurement short of where I want the panel shrink to stop.
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2016, 06:20 PM
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MotoMike43 MotoMike43 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
Mike, nice professionally done video. I do the paper patterns with the magnets and fingers cut just like you do but never would use a radius gauge. Once I have the paper fingers lying flat on the panel I dust coat them with fast drying black Krylon. Yes, all my magnets do have many coats of Krylon on them. When I lay my paper pattern on the sheet I can tell by the un-painted parts of the fingers how deep to pull the shrinks plus the width of the un-painted paper gives you a pretty good idea of how much to shrink & where. I mark ¾” out from where the un-painted portion of the finger stops because I learned at Scott Knight’s class that thumb nail dies will shrink ¾” out in front of where you stop going into the panel.

I also mark blank cutting lines with pin-striping tape and sometimes even use flexible magnetic guides for pin-stripers but again I just dust coat them with dark Krylon. I only need the accuracy of a scribe line when I’m joining 2 panels together. ~ John Buchtenkirch
This thought came to me several hours after my last response... I like your spray paint trick but... That only works for Shrink and not Stretch or when there is neither and only form put into the panel. Having perfect accuracy in the light lines is critical. There is a big difference in making a panel that looks right and is right. Its the difference between building 50k-100k cars and upwards of million dollar+ cars. With that said... Ive worked of 10 million dollar cars that are full of puddy
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  #14  
Old 02-09-2016, 11:47 PM
fred26t fred26t is offline
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Default Nice video

Really nice video. I work mostly in aluminium 3003 h14. I am trying to think of a different way than punching for the marking. I have enough dings to get out. Fred26t
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:45 AM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Perfect video! Great job there!
Hope to see more from you!
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  #16  
Old 02-10-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fred26t View Post
Really nice video. I work mostly in aluminium 3003 h14. I am trying to think of a different way than punching for the marking. I have enough dings to get out. Fred26t
I also work more with Aluminum then steel. For aluminum I use 2 options. Either the "Peter Tommasini way" I call it... where you take a scribe and scratch through the paper to leave a mark or I use my spring punch which allows me to use very light tension and leave a light mark. You can see my use of this Spring punch in my chapter in the new book "Power Hammers" By Bill Longyard.

I have found that even with using a heavy center punch mark on aluminum to transfer lines to the oposite side of a panel it is not a problem. Once you run it through the wheel or hammer a few times the marks are almost gone.

Now I know nothing about Air Craft manufacturing but I do understand they are so strict on marking aluminum that you can not even use a Graphite Pencil or scribes to mark.
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Last edited by MotoMike43; 02-10-2016 at 05:21 PM.
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2016, 01:48 PM
dribble dribble is offline
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Default Pattern making

Hi Mike,
I watched the video the other day and liked your clear information, what I was particularly was interested in was your use of a radius gauge to establish the extent of the curve in the corner of the fender. My question is where did you get your gauge, I have searched google and can't seem to find a supplier. Any information would be great.

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  #18  
Old 02-26-2016, 03:02 PM
PatfromFrance PatfromFrance is offline
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Hi Mike,
It's a wonderful video !!!
I have learnt so much in few minutes.
Thank you for sharing.
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2016, 04:24 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Mike, great video, clear instructions and demo makes it easy to understand.
essential for guys starting out.
Great job on the fender by the way.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2016, 12:04 AM
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MotoMike43 MotoMike43 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dribble View Post
Hi Mike,
I watched the video the other day and liked your clear information, what I was particularly was interested in was your use of a radius gauge to establish the extent of the curve in the corner of the fender. My question is where did you get your gauge, I have searched google and can't seem to find a supplier. Any information would be great.

Cheers Dribble (Dave)
Tricktools.com has them
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