Another drag car ---- 64 Fairlane

[qkiss]

Originally Posted by Marc Bourget

Marc Bouget

Polycarbonate is damaged by exposure to oils and will start crazing. The hole size isn't related to fastener size, it's determined by length of a line of fasteners in conjunction with the cooefficient of expansion for the poly. I forgot to mention that the dimpled washer is supported by an aluminum spacer made from tubing. The spacer is related to fastener size, of course. I will see if I can copy the details from a drawing I have.

mjb[/QUOTE]
Thanks Marc that would be appreciated. ----- I have done a little research and it stated acrylic has an expansion rate 4 to 8 time that of metal. That is a big spread. ---- Steel and aluminum have different rates. Could that be part of the issue? Also found out there is a different rate for tinted acrylic (more) or clear (less) so how is that figured?
I do understand the stand off spacers you mentioned. Are they the same length as material thickness or a couple of thousandths longer so it does not pinch the acrylic? ------- QKiss

[qkiss]

Originally Posted by John Francis

Here is a Lazze video on spot welding aluminum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgC3V3mkcw

John is exactly right. This little trick was learned from Lazze and it works vary well. ------ QKiss

[Jeffer]

Wanted to complement on this build. Really neat and detailed. Love it!
Please keep sharing photos.

[Tim Bradham]

As a race car builder myself, I watching your build and still learning.... There many different ways to build things. Always nice to see the small details in building race cars as if it was gonna be on display for a show! Keep up the great work! Tim

[Marc Bourget]

[snip]
I do understand the stand off spacers you mentioned. Are they the same length as material thickness or a couple of thousandths longer so it does not pinch the acrylic? ------- QKiss
[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I didn't see your question. Just back from the Santa Cruz Metal Meet. Damn, those characters like Kent White, Ron Covel, Gene Winfield and others are clever dudes1 Weather was spectacular!

Re your question. That is correct. Expansion forces are greater than the drag created by the washers. Thin neoprene (.040 approx) is used between the window and structure.

mjb

[qkiss]

Just getting my feet back on the ground after the Santa Cruz meet.

Jeffer/Tim thanks --- There is more to come and as Gene Winfield says "Every Day is a School Day."

Marc Bourget. Thanks for the input. I'm trying to place you at the Santa Cruz meet. Was it you and I talking about dimpling panels for rivets during the Kent White demo? If this was you, you were saying top of the panel would be 100 degrees while the bottom of the panel would be more like a 110 degrees and the lower panel would need to reflect that to nest properly.Was that you??

[qkiss]

This is a Receiver panel just behind the front windshield to accept the top forward edge of the dash. The dash mount had to be addressed before the tab strips for the lexan windshield could be installed.
The dash mount is made up of an upper and lower panel with a step bead on the lower panel and a turned down lead in edge to nest the dash into.
The outer ends @ the ''A'' posts have wider wings so the narrowed dash will fit inside the cage as the dash will be removable and installed with Dzus fasteners.
The lexan tab strips are welded on top of the dash mount.
The straight tab strips are shaped with a Lancaster shrinker/stretcher before welding.

[Marc Bourget]

Marc Bourget. Thanks for the input. I'm trying to place you at the Santa Cruz meet. Was it you and I talking about dimpling panels for rivets during the Kent White demo? If this was you, you were saying top of the panel would be 100 degrees while the bottom of the panel would be more like a 110 degrees and the lower panel would need to reflect that to nest properly.Was that you??[/QUOTE]

Yep, that was me!

mjb

[Jere]

Steve brought the window frame to his drag car and showed how it was made and some of the tooling. For those of you who were not talking about rivets.

Jere

[qkiss]

Stainless Steel Headers ------- This is not metal shaping but I thought it may be of interest.
2 1/4" 304 stainless steel 18 gauge "J" bends.
Independent 3/8" thick 304 stainless header flanges.
Developing equal length primary tubes with slip on collectors.
Finishing up right side header.
Simple back purge set up using masking tape ---- and a pencil used to poke holes for the Argon line and purge holes on the opposite end. At this point the tubes are only tack welded and need finish welding all the way around.
TIG welded inside the flange and smoothed out.
TIG braze Silicon Bronze on the outside for support to retard stress cracking.
Right side header.