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  #11  
Old 10-26-2015, 02:55 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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I worked with a Porsche (935) race team in 1982 and their weld guy used that method for sharpening tungs.
Seems okay and the chem does not seem to affect Fe, AL, SiBr and etc. don't know the limits, but maybe Ti would reflect the chem in the welds?

He used it because it was a "clean" shop with no abrasives used at all.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2016, 04:40 PM
retropower retropower is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwood View Post
I've been TIG welding for over 40 years. Virtually all the time I need to sharpen a tungsten it is because I screwed-up and touched the puddle and it left a bunch of melted metal all over the end.

I use my 1" X 42" vertical belt sander. Takes all of about 15 seconds to replace the point.
I haven't been tig welding for 40 years, but the reason I usually need to sharpen a tungsten is very much the same!! Likewise a belt linisher works a treat
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2016, 07:48 AM
timothale timothale is offline
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Default dedicated sharpener.

I bought a cheap 4 1/2 $ 10 grinder from Harbor freight, and the replacement diamond disc for their chain saw sharpener, I used a Unibit to drill the disc out to fit the grinder. and the $ 20 drill and flashlight. I drilled a couple holes in the grinder guard, poke the tungsden thru a hole to guide it and spin slowly to keep the grind marks the right direction.
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2016, 03:38 PM
R Lange R Lange is offline
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I use the Chem. sharpening for mild steel. Snap on makes a jar that's quick and easy. Heat your tungsten and dip it in 3 or 4 times. Not a lot of fumes with that brand, but I also have a exhaust fan where I weld. Obviously doesn't work for aluminum. Has its benefits.
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  #15  
Old 04-25-2019, 05:01 PM
shaun chandler shaun chandler is offline
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I have a bottle of this in my shop i bought many years ago. I liked the ideal initially but quickly returned to grinding or sanding my tungstens.

I think a diamond tungsten grinder would be nice. I saw one years back for sale on kijiji ( Canada) should have bought it.

Shaun
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  #16  
Old 04-25-2019, 05:17 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun chandler View Post
I have a bottle of this in my shop i bought many years ago. I liked the ideal initially but quickly returned to grinding or sanding my tungstens.

I think a diamond tungsten grinder would be nice. I saw one years back for sale on kijiji ( Canada) should have bought it.

Shaun

Yeah, my bottle sits too. 1982 vintage.
I use a belt sander. (No grooves are left behind by the previous Cro Magnon that way.)
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  #17  
Old 04-25-2019, 06:12 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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Best I found are worn out 2" Roloc discs that used to be 36 grit then, having ground to needle sharpness, polish off the dust on your shirt and you're good to go.

Will
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:54 PM
geelhoed geelhoed is offline
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I put shorter tungstens in a cordless drill. Spin it medium speed grinding against your wheel -belt lengthwise. Does a great job.
Andy Geelhoed(guesswork)
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  #19  
Old 04-26-2019, 12:21 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Could it be a method for more spike durability? And purity?
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  #20  
Old 04-27-2019, 09:41 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default Chem sharp images

As I mentioned, I find Chemsharp most useful when I get a new box, especially bigger ones. There is a greyish film after Chemsharp. Usually, i will put a quick grind on before I use them. If you dip it in the chemsharp long enough it will put a pretty sharp point. I have welded right out of the Chemsharp and not noticed any big difference in the arc. In the picture the top one has been ground, the bottom two are right out of Chemsharp. 1/8" Thoriated.
chemsharp2.jpg
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