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  #201  
Old 11-18-2016, 10:06 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Steve, it is 90% my own design but keeping a reasonable likeness to the original. I'm doing the entire bonnet and structure in aluminum, which was steel originally. The new body is 16" wider than the stock '67 E type, which was a very narrow car for its length.
Features of the new bonnet will include 3 projector beam headlamps per side, extra ducting for specific cooling duties, engine bay closeout panels and hot air extraction. All of this extra stuff has to tilt up because the car had a tilt front end originally. I plan on cruising with my wife, so it will see some miles. Medium duty durability is requirement!

Thanks for your interest

PS, I've been watching your interior panel work. Wow! Nice stuff.
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  #202  
Old 11-19-2016, 12:35 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Mike;
I must apologize as I have been following your build but just now put you together with the Jag. -- Amazing build -- Great work.
With the hood on the Fairlane the under hood support frame work is also the air intake ducting for the engine. With the under hood ducting integral with the hood the ducting becomes a structural member of the hood. If done properly makes the hood very ridged. Was just wondering with your Jag if something like that may work with your ducting and engine bay closeouts designed to double as structural members?
Thanks Mike for the positive feed back.
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  #203  
Old 11-20-2016, 02:42 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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The front fender/grill/fiberglass bumper group is made to be quickly removable with Dzus fasteners as one unit. What is normally a core support is replaced by a 4130 small tube frame work. The 3/4" tube around the frame snout is the base for this frame work. The ends of this tube on each side of the snout slip fit into a receiver.
Close up of the receiver bracket. Bottom is a tube cut in half as a nesting guide when frame work is set in place then slides back into place. Also notice the aluminum bullet nose in the tube end as a guide through the frame bracket.
Front fender plate with tab welded to inside lower front of fender.
Weld clevis in the end of a 5/8"x.049 wall 4130 tube for fender support. The other end is welded to the previously mentioned 3/4"base tube.
Driver side tubing tree with the top tube from fender to fender @ 1/2"x.049 wall 4130 and the diagonal tubes @ 3/8"x.049 wall 4130.
Passenger side tube tree. Keep in mind this is a race car and weight is an important consideration. This may seem to light weight to some but this design works with forces on the front end at over 200 MPH. There will be a few more small tubes down to the fiberglass bumper. With that being said a design based like this for the street could use larger mild steel tube.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 12:01 AM.
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  #204  
Old 11-30-2016, 08:10 PM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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Inside front fender @ door edge line with no back bracing to hold shape to match door contour.
Piecing together 90 degree angle brace to follow skin contour. The 4 items in the center are 2 paper patterns with respective parts ready to weld in place.
Picking up door contour to preshrink angle flange for the fender.
TIG welded 3/4"x 3/4" angle to door edge.
Small 4130 tubing Dzus tab bracket welded to rocker to hold lower rear fender in place with 1/4 turn fasteners.
Dimpling lower rear fender with dimple tool and hammer for 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners.
Lower fender buttoned down in place.
2 Dzus tabs welded to cowl to hold the tops of the fenders in place.
Fender tops buttoned down in place. When finished both front fenders -- grill -- fiberglass front bumper with chin spoiler will be one unit and by unlocking the 4 ---- 1/4 turn fasteners on each side (total of 8 ) the entire front wrap will be removable in a matter of a minute or two.
After a little miner back support tune up on the shrinker stretcher we have a nice match up to the door contour.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 12:06 AM.
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  #205  
Old 12-01-2016, 12:21 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Nice progress Steve!!
Ready for the track next season?

Great ideas & top notch workmanship.

Steve
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  #206  
Old 12-01-2016, 09:55 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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[QUOTE=Steve Hamilton;131174]Nice progress Steve!!
Ready for the track next season?
Great ideas & top notch workmanship.
Thanks Steve and yes the goal is next season.
Just finished engine. --- A Ford 460 bored and stroked to 557 cubic inch that puts out over 900 HP.
Stainless Steel 2 1/4" primary tube headers.
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:14 AM.
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  #207  
Old 12-31-2016, 12:21 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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The grill in drag race cars are completely blocked off to keep air out of the engine compartment. This eliminates drag and helps with down force. It shows up on the time slip as quicker Elapsed Times.
The panel in the English Wheel is being shaped for grill in the Fairlane.
The car stock has flat straight across front bumper and flat straight up and down grill. For better aerodynamics and a more sleek modern look the bumper is arched forward and the blocked off crown shaped grill is leaned back at the top.
The Pullmax is used with custom made dies to put grill features in the panel that well be air brushed to create an open grill look.
The feathers were finished by hand with hammer --- custom made poly punch and a poly block for backup. ( Thanks Kent for this tip you gave me at the work shop it worked awesome)
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:12 AM.
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  #208  
Old 01-02-2017, 01:15 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qkiss View Post
The grill in drag race cars are completely blocked off to keep air out of the engine compartment. This eliminates drag and helps with down force. It shows up on the time slip as quicker Elapsed Times.
The panel in the English Wheel is being shaped for grill in the Fairlane.






The car stock has flat straight across front bumper and flat straight up and down grill. For better aerodynamics and a more sleek modern look the bumper is arched forward and the blocked off crown shaped grill is leaned back at the top.









The Pullmax is used with custom made dies to put grill features in the panel that well be air brushed to create an open grill look.




The feathers were finished by hand with hammer --- custom made poly punch and a poly block for backup. ( Thanks Kent for this tip you gave me at the work shop it worked awesome).
Glad it worked well for you, Steve.
Nice work!!
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  #209  
Old 02-04-2017, 01:07 AM
qkiss qkiss is offline
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My absence was do to having trouble downloading photos. Think I figured it out.
Practice panel in the pull max doming for simulated headlights in the grill.
Pull max doming tool with different radius upper dies.
One of Kent's hand held shot bags on a polly stand with hammer slapper and corking tool.
As the doming process comes out of pull max the dome to panel transition is to soft and in need of clean up to sharpen the line.
The grill and headlight features will be air brushed to simulate the real thing.
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Steve Kioukis
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Last edited by qkiss; 07-09-2017 at 09:17 AM.
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  #210  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:35 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Steve
looking good ,thanks for sharing. Really like that grille and bumper, keep up the good work.

Steve
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