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  #11  
Old 03-24-2011, 04:49 PM
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RickWG RickWG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 52pickup View Post
I was going to post this morning, that you should have the whole thing sandblasted.
Usually a good way to stretch the hell out of the panel...
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:09 PM
robert robert is offline
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metal forming without any knowledge can result in disaster
sandblasting is the same but both are realy possible

problem is most sandblasters are sandblasters and not sheetmetal guys

in a perfect world we have time , room and machines to do our own sandblasting
more advanced sheetmetal workers just see things go wrong when they go wrong and stop in time, you cant expect a sandblaster to know the same, i mean how long did it take us to only learn the things on sheetmetal we know.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2011, 05:39 PM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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I have yet to warp a panel blasting it with one of these...


They're called spot-shot blasters, I have found mine perfect for areas either side of a crack.
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2011, 07:25 PM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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Never had a problem with a big blaster either. Unless he (this time, the owner of the vehicle) was trying to blast off undercoating.

Its all about usin your head.

Blast away, blast away.

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  #15  
Old 03-25-2011, 11:26 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Once again abrasive blasting is getting bad press. Read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs on my recent post #31 by clicking here >> http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...1232#post31232 . I will just add that if it’s paint or undercoating I will usually hit it with one application of paint remover or in the case of undercoating heat & scrape before blasting. Abrasive blasting is pretty BORING so anything to cut down blast time is a plus. Aluminum oxide blasted panels tig welds very nicely, so my blast cabinet has become an absolute asset in my shop, I can’t imagine being without it. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #16  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
Once again abrasive blasting is getting bad press.
I think it's just sandblasting that's getting bad press, & it's usually some numpty going mad with sand that does damage, not an above average operator using any one of a number of different medias.
It seems the default setting by people in the US is "sandblasting" no matter what is being used. In the UK everyone says "shotblasting" even if they are using soda or glass bead etc.
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2011, 04:37 AM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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I use single row twisted wire wheels to strip paint and rust. They work very well.
The smaller 4" or 5" in a right angle grinder work best for rust. Use the coarse wire type. SAFTY: Wear goggles! Always rotate brush away from any edge as in drawing. Never towards it for they will catch the edge and can throw the grinder from your hands plus maybe ruin your work.

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  #18  
Old 12-14-2011, 11:39 AM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Default Dry ice blasting

I know this is an old thread, but I thought this post fits well here.

First became aware of this process when a friend recently sent me some links. The tiny ice crystals are sharp enough apparently. Looks pretty viable to me.

Anybody have real world experience with this on sheet metal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8OYd...eature=related


As far as its ability to be finessed, here's a clip of it being used to strip veneered furniture (of the finish, not the veneer):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj8FN...eature=related

Looks to me like this has very few drawbacks.
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Last edited by weldtoride; 12-14-2011 at 02:08 PM. Reason: sp
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