#11
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Usually a good way to stretch the hell out of the panel...
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RickG. Those who possess real knowledge are rare. Those who can set that knowledge into motion in the physical world are rarer still. The few who possess real knowledge and can set it into motion of their own hands are the rarest of all. |
#12
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metal forming without any knowledge can result in disaster
sandblasting is the same but both are realy possible problem is most sandblasters are sandblasters and not sheetmetal guys in a perfect world we have time , room and machines to do our own sandblasting more advanced sheetmetal workers just see things go wrong when they go wrong and stop in time, you cant expect a sandblaster to know the same, i mean how long did it take us to only learn the things on sheetmetal we know.
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robert veldman |
#13
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I have yet to warp a panel blasting it with one of these...
They're called spot-shot blasters, I have found mine perfect for areas either side of a crack.
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Mark from Illinois |
#14
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Never had a problem with a big blaster either. Unless he (this time, the owner of the vehicle) was trying to blast off undercoating.
Its all about usin your head. Blast away, blast away. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#15
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Once again abrasive blasting is getting bad press. Read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs on my recent post #31 by clicking here >> http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...1232#post31232 . I will just add that if it’s paint or undercoating I will usually hit it with one application of paint remover or in the case of undercoating heat & scrape before blasting. Abrasive blasting is pretty BORING so anything to cut down blast time is a plus. Aluminum oxide blasted panels tig welds very nicely, so my blast cabinet has become an absolute asset in my shop, I can’t imagine being without it. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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#16
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I think it's just sandblasting that's getting bad press, & it's usually some numpty going mad with sand that does damage, not an above average operator using any one of a number of different medias.
It seems the default setting by people in the US is "sandblasting" no matter what is being used. In the UK everyone says "shotblasting" even if they are using soda or glass bead etc.
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RickG. Those who possess real knowledge are rare. Those who can set that knowledge into motion in the physical world are rarer still. The few who possess real knowledge and can set it into motion of their own hands are the rarest of all. |
#17
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I use single row twisted wire wheels to strip paint and rust. They work very well.
The smaller 4" or 5" in a right angle grinder work best for rust. Use the coarse wire type. SAFTY: Wear goggles! Always rotate brush away from any edge as in drawing. Never towards it for they will catch the edge and can throw the grinder from your hands plus maybe ruin your work.
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The Rod Doctor, Richard Crees Last edited by TheRodDoc; 05-08-2011 at 05:25 AM. |
#18
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Dry ice blasting
I know this is an old thread, but I thought this post fits well here.
First became aware of this process when a friend recently sent me some links. The tiny ice crystals are sharp enough apparently. Looks pretty viable to me. Anybody have real world experience with this on sheet metal? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8OYd...eature=related As far as its ability to be finessed, here's a clip of it being used to strip veneered furniture (of the finish, not the veneer): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj8FN...eature=related Looks to me like this has very few drawbacks.
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Mark from Illinois Last edited by weldtoride; 12-14-2011 at 02:08 PM. Reason: sp |
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