#1
|
|||
|
|||
Tips and tricks for making patterns and templates
Iam looking for tips and tricks to get a little faster in making my patterns and templates and correctly marking details such as body lines and how to correctly measure them. I feel that I spend a lot of time making and remaking my patterns because I second guess my self and the replacement part you make is only as good as your pattern I feel like pattern making gets overlooked a lot, maybe Iam over thinking it but there is a ton of knowledge on this site so maybe someone could give me a break down of how they would mark and transfer all the details/body lines kind of a step by step? Thanks
__________________
Eric Crafton |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I Don't fully understand your p[roblems, but after teaching a few workshops on this, I have learned:
"Never time to do it right but always time to do it over." Having the patience to make good patterns is one big key. I have made patterns accurate enough to get .001" gaps in polished 2024, on Formula I wings. But it takes time and patience. Thought is always faster than the physical body.
__________________
Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Eric Crafton |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
A pattern when transfer it to the blank it's a indication of the amount of material needed and all the details on the panel that you are making, usually those details do not change if the panel is relatively flat ..BUT... once the shape in question is more bulbous the details marked on the blank from the start can change, simply because of the stretching of the material when blocked and wheeled .I had details changing up to 5 mm .So,I found that the fix for this problem is to cut a strip of proper paper pattern about 20 mm wide, and from top to bottom of the panel for length. lay it on the original panel, hold it down with some tape properly and mark with a sharp pencil the details again, Do this by having the paper strips about 200 mm apart , then simply put the strips back on the new panel,(same spot) mark the new details on the panel that you are making and go from there . In some cases you might need profiles. (cut them out from either 5 mm thick MBF or 1.2 ally) these ''profiles'' are started by using a profile gauge (big, regular ,or small) transfer the shape on to your material, mark it and cut the material ,then use a file to get it spot on. In this case also you need to mark the position of your profile on to the old panel,and have them space out about 120/150 mm apart, then repeat the process over the new panel Peter
__________________
P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-28-2018 at 04:59 PM. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Yes, absolutely. Paper patterns allow: 1) overall size 2) locations of holes, seams, hems, fasteners, louvers, and body lines - by the "rubbing" technique - Indiana Jones, getting the info from the ancient stellae ... remember? 3) locations of shrinks, and how much, and how deep to shrink. 4) locations of stretch areas, and how much. 5) analyzing the relationship between the stretch and shrink areas can further fine-tune the choices of how much, and how much in which location. Remember that you are being a topographer - making maps of geography, in detail, so that you can find your way with the metal. Maybe helpful watching a dressmaker lay out the patterns on a person, cutting, fitting, marking the "artwork" and the darts (shrinks), where the material needs to be "taken up" or reduced in area. Same thing, really. (okay PETER T ..... ---GO!)
__________________
Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 11-28-2018 at 05:40 PM. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Eric Crafton |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Hi,
This might help for making simple profile gauges, to copy your panel. http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18307 Bill
__________________
Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Eric,
I use templates made from 3mm MDF, they cut super easy with Snips and adjustments are made quick and easy. On panels with shape, I use the needle style profile guages. If I measure the places for swages , body lines or even door skins, I use a Dress Makers Tape measure, you can stick them on with tape and accurately measure all points. Or you can even just use Masking tape which you can also use for all your marks.
__________________
John EK Holden V8 |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
IMG_2061.jpg
So how would I go about marking the return to accurately reproduce it? Should I mark the middle of the return and use that as the line to make my bend on?
__________________
Eric Crafton |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If you make up a test piece of accurate duplicate material and lay out your theoretical set points with a scribe, then you can make your bend and find out what your setback is - or identify where the choices are for that job.
__________________
Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|