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Old 10-04-2015, 10:37 PM
filtersweeper filtersweeper is offline
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Default fender buck for 03 golf

So I have jumped into the world of metal shaping. My background is machinist, with some fabrication/welding skills. I just got an older syncrowave TIG machine, along with and english wheel, shrinker stretcher, hammers/dolly's, roughing bag etc. I'm building a car (motor work, along with custom wheels and custom trunk setup) and would like to make some big body fenders to go with the wide wheels that won't fit in the original fenders. I have followed closely all of the videos online Lazze, Covell, etc and have an idea of the direction needed to go. My question I guess is how do I know how to shape each of the stations as the curve changes? Is this done by simply slightly changing each shape from one to the next? Here are some pics of my preliminary design. Any tips would be great. How am I going to connect those fins, or stations (not sure if i'm using the right terminology) if the body panel of the car isn't flat to accomodate an arc shaped wooded "base" to screw the fins to. I hope this makes sense to someone.

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Old 10-05-2015, 05:01 AM
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neilb neilb is offline
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i would say don't get too caught up trying to match each station you made, what i would say is if the look and flow looks correct then if it doesn't match it exact it doesn't matter. its the second one you make that has to match.


not being very good at shaping myself i would suggest making a paper pattern or FSP (flexible shape pattern) then cut some steel and bend it as that's the best bit...

good luck with it Jason, I'm guessing your a fan of the 034 vw golf?
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:33 PM
filtersweeper filtersweeper is offline
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Originally Posted by neilb View Post
i would say don't get too caught up trying to match each station you made, what i would say is if the look and flow looks correct then if it doesn't match it exact it doesn't matter. its the second one you make that has to match.


not being very good at shaping myself i would suggest making a paper pattern or FSP (flexible shape pattern) then cut some steel and bend it as that's the best bit...

good luck with it Jason, I'm guessing your a fan of the 034 vw golf?
I just looked at the 034 golf. Pretty cool. Needs bigger fenders in my opinion. haha!
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:48 PM
Ranchero50 Ranchero50 is offline
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I'm in a similar position, only a step or two further down the line. My advice is to work some scrap on the wheel and learn how the metal reacts to different stimulus. Same with tucking and shrinking. Now blend the two. Learn what works and then apply it to your design.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the design until you figure out how to form the metal. You can play with your scrap and use it to practice the form and fit at different sections of your fender.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:02 AM
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Several ways of attacking this panel and its important. depending on your farmiliarity of shrinking and stretching you can do it one of three ways.

1) (my favorite way) work from the fender lip back to the car. tip where you want the wheel opening and where you want the fender lip to be. deep shrink with tucks to get the depth you want and stretch the outer edge to get the flare to flow onto the body. tip to flange your wheel opening when everything is where you want and clean up with the lancasters to work out any wobbles in the lip. (this method is going to have you doing lots of tuck shrinking but you can work from a template accurate mainly to the wheel arch)

I don't have a picture of it since its just a partial panel to get an eye reference for the rear but you can see this method on the bit of the front fender. worked from the fender lip back to meet the body. obviously its not finished because a vent will be where the overhang is.


2) Work from the car body out. This will require lots of stretching to get the main bulk of the flare out from the body. locate and tip the fender flange and shrinking will be involved here on the flange. If your comfortable with your wheel and sand bag this might be something you like. I don't usually use this method because its easier for me to tweak the car body a bit to flow onto my panel then it is for me to make sure my fender flange is precisely where I want it. You can always do the flange a a separate piece and weld to achieve the fit for the stance you seem to be going for.

making the lip as a separate piece. the flare is mainly done as stretching to work from the car body out to the flange (a jig attached to the hub is a great help)and ignore my shitty weld finishing abilities.

3) work from the middle. Seeing that your working on a buck you can get a good pattern and work the metal "from the middle" this means your sheet will start out as a more spread out panel and wrapping the panel around the buck in a way by shrinking the inner and stretching the outer and depending on the detail maybe a little bit of shrinking on the outside before stretching the edge!

you can see how this sheet was "worked from the middle" with limited tooling and a good pattern this is the easiest way to achieve a shape without losing control of the panel.


I do think that first you need to buy your wheels. it will give you exact points to what you will be building to.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:13 AM
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thingsthatfly2 thingsthatfly2 is offline
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since you are most likely setting this for stance you should consider doing it in two pieces. the lancasters allow lots of control for your fender lip and welding along your fender lip line can make for easy planishing, just find a dolly with a peak.


worked from the fender lip back but we spliced in our own fender lip since we had to make both sides in one day!
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Old 10-10-2015, 12:15 AM
filtersweeper filtersweeper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thingsthatfly2 View Post
I do think that first you need to buy your wheels. it will give you exact points to what you will be building to.
So I have my wheels. They are a 1 piece wheel I've converted to a 3-piece. The faces are waiting to be powder coated and the lips and barrels are here. I made custom center caps and have gold hardware that will fasten them together.
The faces:

Post I made to split them:

and how they'll look:

Keep in mind the lips are polished. Back on topic, they wheels will be done next week and I will begin building my buck at that point. First with the front fenders. My shop is slowly becoming a metal shaping zone. I just picked up a cheap beadroller (CHINA) and it deffinitely needs to be reinforced as it is already twisting. Up until now I have been playing with different shapes and techniques and practicing butt welding the sheet metal. Thanks for all the advice and pics.
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:51 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Nice 'stuff' guys, keep the pictures coming.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:18 PM
filtersweeper filtersweeper is offline
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Wheels are done! and now its finally time to begin the buck building for the fenders. I'm excited and have been waiting for this phase for what seems like forever. December first I have some tenants moving into this little apartment I reno'd upstairs and so I can finally focus on the sheet metal phase of the car. Here are some pics of the wheels. My next post will be pics of my buck hopefully!


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Old 01-10-2016, 03:54 PM
filtersweeper filtersweeper is offline
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Hey guys, I'm still learning and practicing new principles. Used my cheap bead roller to make a speaker grill and got my wheels on finally with my air ride done so I can begin the fender bucks! Here's my start. I used a contour tool to make the shape of the body side and just a french curve to make my new fender shape.


I used welding rod to make a nice arc that marks the edge perimeter

Next I make them from wood and begin paper patterns!
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