All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > General Metal Shaping Discussion > Buck Building
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 02-28-2015, 10:48 PM
Bob Foster Bob Foster is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 115
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
CLAY MODELS
Pro- Perhaps the only way to do manual true surface development
Pro- Easy to make a mold or FSPs from
Pro- Relatively easy to modify by adding or removing material and resculpting.
Pro- Easy to add clay to existing panels to 'develop' alternative shapes and be able to see it in full size. Refer to Mike Motage Jag project.http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=7593a
Con-Expensive
Con-Big
Con-Heavy
Con-Easy to damage
Con-Still need to capture surface information in order to create a station buck
Con-Not really possible to pull a FSP
Con-Largely replaced by 3D solid modeling by the large automotive manufacturing companies
Recently I came across some old books that show the building of a buck where the wood stations are built a little short and metal strips are used around the perimeter. The contact area is thin enough that the slope or taper of the station edge Is not an Issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Neil, that appears to be a production buck. As you say it is sturdily made but there is lots of access to see the fit. The nose is solid and obviously intended to be used as a hammerform. Notice the stump, mallet, and piece of aluminum to the right of the photo.

One thing to notice on this buck is the edges of the stations. Notice how they are sloped to follow the surface.

A MAJOR issue with station bucks is that we must consider which EDGE is the contact point. Many people will run the material (plywood, MDF, ??) through a router to round over the edges so the contact line is the center of the station. If this is not considered, the spacing has to be modified in order for the curve to be fair. For instance, if you have a simple downward then upward curved surface, on the descending side from left to right, the contact is on the right hand side of the material (typically 1/2" thick). But as the curve starts to go up, the contact is on the left hand side, and at the very bottom, it is actually at the center.

I think some of the new 3D cad automatically considers this but for a backyard hack like me, it can create some really interesting challenges.
__________________
Bob Foster
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-01-2015, 02:48 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Cloverdale, CA
Posts: 1,233
Default Foam?

Kerry,

Over the years we've seen metal shapers use Home Depot foam insulation material and PL400 glue to create a shape they desire to make out of metal. From the canned expanding foam, to rigid sheets glued to cars and re-shaped, there have been a number of different techniques used.

Truly, I don't know if a foam shape can be considered a "buck", but it is one fairly cheap way to explore a shape. Recently a buddy of mine bought a styrofoam block, then cut and sanded to create his desired pedal car shape.

Thoughts?
__________________
John

Ron Covell, Autofuturist books (Tim Barton/Bill Longyard) and Kent White metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane@mountainhouseestate.com for price and availability.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-01-2015, 06:47 AM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Origin of the wheel, UK
Posts: 630
Default

Here's a link showing Ron Covell making a buck for a fender, it gets you started.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktj5DWaKXYI&sns=em
__________________
Cheers
Martin

No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-01-2015, 07:22 AM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Near Huntsville, Alabama. Just south of the Tennessee line off I65
Posts: 8,320
Default

Here is a combination buck for the front fender of my roadster.



I wasn't really happy with the design at that point. It did not have the swoopy shape I wanted. This evolved into a foam buck covered with bondo for making a true surface. My approach to that is in this post:

http://allmetalshaping.com/showpost....10&postcount=8

I believe over the course of the roadster build so far, I've used about every buck style in existence from hard eggcrate, wireform, Bert, FSP. Never used any clay though.

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...highlight=deco
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-01-2015, 07:29 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
MetalShaper of the Month October '14 , April '16, July 2020, Jan 2023
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western Sierra Nevadas, Badger Hill, CA
Posts: 4,385
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
Kerry,

Over the years we've seen metal shapers use Home Depot foam insulation material and PL400 glue to create a shape they desire to make out of metal. From the canned expanding foam, to rigid sheets glued to cars and re-shaped, there have been a number of different techniques used.

Truly, I don't know if a foam shape can be considered a "buck", but it is one fairly cheap way to explore a shape. Recently a buddy of mine bought a styrofoam block, then cut and sanded to create his desired pedal car shape.

Thoughts?
Sorry to butt in here John, but ...

Lockheed Martin sent these foam check-tools along with my contract - in 2013, so it's current tech.

Lockheed check tooling.jpg

24finalendview2 copy.jpg

fits tight copy.jpg

I can make 6 sets of skins from each tool, which is what the job calls for - a short run of modified birds. The foam is tough enough to be machined, secured, and then handled - with respect. The first run of skins only shined up the foam surfaces.

hammer skin copy.jpg

It is very possible to buy the two-cylinder foam kit, which delivers more than a cubic yard of expanding foam. Let it harden, sculpt it, and then give it an eggshell of f-glas gelcoat. Sand that and get the metal moving.
__________________
Kent

http://www.tinmantech.com

"All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-22-2016, 08:29 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Oct 2016, June 2020, April 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: S.E.Michigan
Posts: 802
Default

Kerry, this thread should be a sticky because it contains much of the criteria for deciding on how to construct a buck that works for anyone considering such a project.
__________________
Mike
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:55 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.