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  #11  
Old 03-31-2016, 06:40 AM
MattTupman MattTupman is offline
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I would always try to put as much detail into a buck as possible. A wooden or resin hammer form in this area will make life much easier.
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  #12  
Old 03-31-2016, 10:53 AM
Just Just is offline
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Originally Posted by skintkarter View Post
Thanks Ernst, but thinking was more about making a station buck rather than a full panel model. Guess if I was going to make a glass or carbon part, then I would need to make a model. Really want to try and wheel these up in ali, so I guess the station buck is the best (and traditional) way to go.

i understand, i use it for the first shape,..easy working, fast working, after i made a solid buck and do it in Aluminium,...i Need it allways if nothing is there, and i must beginn from Zero, for this it is a fast meterial to create
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2016, 01:59 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by skintkarter View Post
Thanks Kent. Nothing at all in terms of a wheelhouse - they were just glass boxes, Dzus fastened into a vestigial remaining bit of factory coachwork. The rear guards house individual cooling radiators. On the factory cars they were dangled on support rods, with no connections to the outer guard. Don't think that the sill extension is of much help in terms of anti-flop at the front of the rear guard, hence thinking that a framed mesh insert would triangulate the radiator openings.

But was more head scratching re the buck question around the openings. Form something up to the finished shape, so that you could belt the ali around like a hammerform? Realise you could only take any return to 90 degrees, otherwise there will be tears in trying to lift it from the buck.
Okie-dokie, Richard,
I'll venture out onto the long limb here, for you on this job.
I like these racecar jobs a lot. Done too many....
So, I would make a solid reversible form, like Peter suggests, but perhaps a bit more than just a formed alum tube.......?
Plan: Make a flow forming block for one side - that flips over and bolts up to your buck on the opposite side.
Simple stout form that allows you to flow form a partial "J" edge under both arches.

Like you say, take the side panel edge to the 90 and quit, then mark and trim the edge all the way around. This section now slips off- does not hang up on the buck arch opening.

Plan is to make outer panel and also an inner brief panel that connects to the outer, but also goes up inside to clear the tire and then turns a half-inch or 5/8 and quits. This is a step for your next panel, going across the tire to the inner wheelhouse wall.
Goal here is to also make outer panel with J and then the inner partial "J" for the opposite side, then flip, and do first inner, and then outer panel for the opposite side: the 4 pieces meet exactly at the 90 trim line. Welding them is almost zero hassle - Rule of Welding Radius Edge.
Trick is to curve a big flange / or two or three sections of flange that clears the wheel and upward travel, First. Then clamp that complete form to your form block and flow form the radius to the 90 "J" and scribe and trim.
Your accuracy should be easy to hold if your form block is stiff and held well. (You do know how to do the quick tigtacks on alum, right? No headgear, stomp pedal and hold 'till cup glows and quit...? I covered this in my very first video, 22 years ago, on gas welding aluminum. Old SoCal aluminum body-builders' trick.)

This method allows you to pre-make your wheel house step-flange before welding it in. The step allows you to form a simple arch going over each tire, which lands on the inside wheel house wall, where you just attach flange segments here and there to catch it. Pop-rivet the whole works and wheel flares are SOLID.

(Keep your bucks, blocks, and line-ups for "post-red mist" body tuneups.)

Plan for the forms? Make the alum tube shapes, thick wall tube - .090. Cut same thickness ply or mdf or xyz board - to the arch contour but to the tangent of the tube when it's laid flat. Router the edge inwards with a full-radius bit to cove it to receive the tube-form and edge-screw (countersunk #10 X 1.5inch) the tube to the coved "wood" flat shape. Bolt that assy to your buck. After the J shapes are made you can add some curve to the plane of your 4 parts by doing nibbleshrinks along 1/8" of the J edge.
...enough blather for now ... I have work to do, too.
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  #14  
Old 03-31-2016, 02:56 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Okie-dokie, Richard,
I'll venture out onto the long limb here, for you on this job.
I like these racecar jobs a lot. Done too many....
So, I would make a solid reversible form, like Peter suggests, but perhaps a bit more than just a formed alum tube.......?
Plan: Make a flow forming block for one side - that flips over and bolts up to your buck on the opposite side.
Simple stout form that allows you to flow form a partial "J" edge under both arches.
Crikey Kent... many, many thanks for this thoughtful and time consuming response. I'm sure you have much better things to be doing Obewan...

I'll need to re-read a few times re the wheelhouse, as I'm pretty slow at this stuff - the blindingly obvious quite often not very obvious at all to me.

Had some recent agonising over the bonnet vent slot and the factory Dzus fasteners hooking same to the bonnet. The factory car had them in the vertical plane joining the two, but I figured that they may have conflicted with the 5 bonnet pins, given that they were at 90 degrees to one another. Puzzled away for a while and then wrote a lengthy dissertation to my deaf Austin 7 Special and Warbird buddy re the conundrum. He wrote back and said simply 'bung them through the bonnet into a rearward facing flange on the duct'. "Doh!" as Homer would have said. Thanks again Kent and I'll post some shots as I get into that part of the buck.
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2016, 03:02 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Originally Posted by MattTupman View Post
I would always try to put as much detail into a buck as possible. A wooden or resin hammer form in this area will make life much easier.
Cheers Matt - I need all the help I can get with 'easy' as I'm as far away from Messers Tommasini, White, Tupman etc... as it's possible to be. So a former for the edge sounds sensible, especially as the arch doesn't have much compound shape.
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  #16  
Old 03-31-2016, 03:04 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Originally Posted by Just View Post
i understand, i use it for the first shape,..easy working, fast working, after i made a solid buck and do it in Aluminium,...i Need it allways if nothing is there, and i must beginn from Zero, for this it is a fast meterial to create
Thanks Ernst I'll have a look at the website.
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