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Body Beltline Feature Question
When you are building a buck and there is a beltline ( or crease similar to the one that runs along the side of a VW Beetle just under the windows or over the drip rail on the roof) would the buck need to have that detail, or would the buck profiles be faired smooth?
It seems you could put the bead in after the panels fit the buck using a bead roller or pullmax machine, negating the need to have this feature in the buck. I saw the feature on the slingshot dragster thread, and the raised area on the top surface of the nose it had been laid out with pinstriping tape after the panel had been made, although I didn't see what was used but presuming it was a beadroller type machine. Thanks beetle.jpg
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 03-02-2016 at 10:32 AM. |
#2
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Drip edges, no. Slightly raised beads for chrome trim, I would add separately. If you are talking about the step where the greenhouse meets the body side, that I would definitely have that character in the buck proper.
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Mike Last edited by Mike Motage; 02-29-2016 at 05:24 PM. |
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Thanks Mike,
I mean the negative recess body lines. Thinking it might result in a better line if they were put last, after all panel forming was done. Regards Steve
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
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I'm no expert on this, Steve ...
But using that body as an example .... the roof has 3 shapes, divided by 2 lines. The sides have two shapes, divided by one line. I always leave a step in the buck for a change of shape on a line like that. It doesn't have to be a real accurate representation but it has to be an accurate place marker for the change in shape. I don't see how you cannot put at least a notch in the buck to allow the body line freedom of space - so the two separate shapes on the body side can find their home positions accurately on the buck. If you can freehand your work well enough then you don't require as much "solid" information. If you have a 20-man crew making 50 bodies on a contract, then your buck has to be accurate so every man has the same guide to work to, for overall consistency. The buck should be as accurate as you need it to be. It is a guide for your metal shapes, as much as you require, or as little. Make sense?
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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You could consider locally adding the finer bead line detail to get the finish shape, this could be dowelled and screwed to each station then removed prior to tacking up to avoid the undercut that would trap the metal.
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Tom Poulter Follow the Dream - Sideways - - But don't fall-off the edge 'good to know you guys care' https://ctrestorations.com/ |
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Thanks Kent and Tom,
Makes sense, I was concerned that putting the feature in would be more difficult to get a straight line the length of the feature when joining multiple pieces of the panel. Would you say perhaps putting the partial feature in the buck, and after all the Individual panel pieces have been formed and joined to fit the buck, to go back and add the final sharper feature line at the end if that makes sense. Steve
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
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Quote:
I remember an aluminum split-window bug body coming together years ago - '84? - and the roof was nicely done, and the rear lid was nicely done. But, the contours did not match as the rear lid was oversize a little bit and a little piecut was asking to be made between the two valley lines. I know the job was budget and timeframe, so what to do? As it was Dick Troutman, I could only imagine that they were not given the time or he would not have let it out of the shop. The whole job was very nice and that was the only hiccup i saw. (Note here: making one panel to fit is great, but making a matching tapered panel fit also is another whole order of difficulty. )
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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