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  #51  
Old 06-24-2017, 07:02 PM
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in33anity in33anity is offline
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Bill, Looks great!!!
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  #52  
Old 06-24-2017, 07:45 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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Thanks Ira. I'll be up at Wray's class in October. Hope to see you there.
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  #53  
Old 06-25-2017, 06:30 AM
hlfuzzball hlfuzzball is offline
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Bill, you picked the toughest place to shape on your body to begin with. The rest of the project will be easy, well maybe not easy but downhill from here. I admire your guts to take on a project this large and difficult. Good work !
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  #54  
Old 06-25-2017, 10:57 AM
mastuart mastuart is offline
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Atta boy Bill! Looks good. Here is a thought for the other side. Make the headlight ring mount a separate piece. Might be more welding but it might be a cure for the coming up short. I hope this link works.


https://scontent-dft4-3.xx.fbcdn.net...e0&oe=59D1A169
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  #55  
Old 06-26-2017, 09:39 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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I need to wrap the nose grille panel around the actual steel tubing I will be using in the Superleggera structure. I hadn't originally planned to do this, but thanks to Mark Savory and Rick Mullin I realize I must do it this way.

Here's how I made the tubing...which I ALWAYS find difficult to work.

I made a template out of aluminum 1/2" air conditioner tubing. It is soft and easily formed.

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I used a Pexto stove pipe stake to shape 1/8"x1" hot rolled bar to the inside shape of the template (careful two handed pushing down over many places). After tack welding the upper horizontal of the bar to the bench near the center, I pulled each leg in about 3/4" and tack welded some more. This was absolutely "by guess and by golly" mixed with a bit of previous tube bending experience. I did this to anticipate spring-back of the tubing.

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I welded a short stub of 1 1/4" tubing on the work table near the left side of the steel bar. I used a length of electrical conduit and slowly bent it around the steel bar. I DID NOT pull on the end of the tubing length, but kept my hands as close to the steel form as possible. This kept the shape closer to form without it bowing out.

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On my first attempt, the finish shape was very close, but the spring-back on the right side was more than on the left side. I therefore decided to try it again, but this time I only bent 1/2 at a time, and once I had the first half bent, flipped the tubing over (after careful measuring) and bent the "right side" of the tube in the left side of the steel form. The result was MUCH more symmetrical.

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After trimming the tube to length, note the amount of spring-back. Fortunately, the steel tubing now matched the aluminum template exactly.

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Painful experience has taught me how nearly impossible it is to get a really tight (2" radius?) in electrical conduit without special dies. Instead of fighting the system, I cheated a bit and cut the 90 degree corners out of a base for a halogen lamp. You see the corners on the table ready to be welded and joined by a straight piece of tubing. Another halogen lamp base is in the center of the photo to show where the pieces came from

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Tomorrow I will weld the pieces together; I'll then curve the grille hoop to conform with the curve of the nose; and then I'll begin to carve out the wooden nose to accept this hoop.
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  #56  
Old 06-27-2017, 05:58 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thanks for showing how you did this Bill.
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  #57  
Old 06-27-2017, 05:20 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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A well thought out plan that has come to fruition!

Thank you for showing us the technique and the problems encountered and how you overcame them Bill,

Cheers Charlie
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