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  #41  
Old 06-13-2017, 09:47 AM
mastuart mastuart is offline
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Bill the 4 pieces I think I would be trying as one. I don't know if I could do it but I would try real hard. If you cant get it done in one piece the pieces of scrap do not appear to be to large of a loss. As far as the welding in the reverse. I think some have blinders on and cant see. If welded from the back side you will be welding on a crown. just make sure you get full penetration.

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  #42  
Old 06-15-2017, 09:10 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Bill
As a suggestion I think you would be better off making the full guard first ...then simply turn down the flange for the headlight
this is how I would do this
(1) make the full return going towards the bonnet and the front panel then make the center top of the guard ..... make top of the guard all the way around to where the crown start to flatten off
(2) make the side (including swage) then use your buck to put it all together cut and weld
(3) anneal the ally, brake the headlight flange by hand turn it and shrink it as you go ,once you nearly there, insert a round piece of wood in the right position anneal the ally again and turn it completely over, once that is done use another piece of wood (or steel) and screw the two together with four bolts (just away from the flange) one in front and one at the back then with a slapper adjust the roundness of the pod
Peter
PS if you like......... and ''if'' the ally starts to gets a bit thin on the very tight return between the guard and the front panel (beside the headlight bucket)..... well that can be done as a separate piece and weld that in
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 06-15-2017 at 09:19 AM.
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  #43  
Old 06-15-2017, 07:45 PM
kiwi john kiwi john is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Tommasini View Post
Bill
As a suggestion I think you would be better off making the full guard first ...then simply turn down the flange for the headlight
this is how I would do this
(1) make the full return going towards the bonnet and the front panel then make the center top of the guard ..... make top of the guard all the way around to where the crown start to flatten off
(2) make the side (including swage) then use your buck to put it all together cut and weld
(3) anneal the ally, brake the headlight flange by hand turn it and shrink it as you go ,once you nearly there, insert a round piece of wood in the right position anneal the ally again and turn it completely over, once that is done use another piece of wood (or steel) and screw the two together with four bolts (just away from the flange) one in front and one at the back then with a slapper adjust the roundness of the pod
Peter
PS if you like......... and ''if'' the ally starts to gets a bit thin on the very tight return between the guard and the front panel (beside the headlight bucket)..... well that can be done as a separate piece and weld that in
Yeah Pete, thats pretty much how I would do it too ................

Cheers John
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  #44  
Old 06-15-2017, 11:09 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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Tim, Bill, John, Martin, Bob, Peter, and Mark........THANK-YOU so much for contributing your ideas. It turns out that I remade the panel in two pieces and this time used a tip from Mark Savory to do a little shrinking first before I stretched the area that was so thin the first time around. I've got it all welded today, and will post pictures the next time.

I have already learned that my combination hardwood/foam filled nose buck is too flimsy to be used as a hammer form and that is a real limiting factor on the approaches I can use to make the nose. I'm too far down that road to change it, though. This is a BUDGET build.

Rick Mullin has shown me that the best way to build this nose cost-effectively is to use MDF and when I get on to me next build, I will go that route.

I SINCERELY appreciate the support everyone is giving me in this project...my first complete car build. I not only got help on this forum, but through e-mails, and telephone calls. I'm very appreciative.
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  #45  
Old 06-24-2017, 12:22 AM
longyard longyard is offline
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I finished the first headlight pod. It took a few days longer than planned due to my wife's unplanned collision with a deer which jumped out in front of her car in broad daylight. She's okay, the car isn't, and the deer is no more.


I used a paper pattern to get the basic shape. A flexible shape pattern would have been impractical.

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I used this curved stake to begin folding the annealed .063 aluminum.

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I like these plastic mallets. I bought the one, and a few others, at a hardware store in London. They're still sold in Europe to shape lead roof panels. Dagger Tools sells them in the US.


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I stretched the lower edge and most of the upper edge in my English wheel.

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I drove the panel into the headlight bulge with a wooden mallet (also Dagger tools). Note the small amount of mechanical shrinking on the lower left edge. This is where the panel sweeps up and around the grille opening. Rick Mullin gave me some good advice on how to do the grille opening, and so this area will mostly be cut away eventually.

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Checking Kent White's website (metal encyclopedia?!) I found out that 1100 has a lower annealing temperature than 3003, but I went ahead and annealed it "the usual way" using the soot/flame method. I annealed the panel 3 times during the process and each time I got better at putting just a lighter coat of soot on it. Kent's site explains that 1100 anneals about 100 degrees F lower than 3003.

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I used a variety of tools to continue to drive in the sharp valley. The tool here is actually "P" shaped and about 3/4" round. I also used a cheap 1/2" socket welded to a length of bar as a caulking tool.

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The Mechammer worked really well to planish the panel. It is easy to offset the lower anvil holder to get into tight corners. Ben Van Berlo sells a variety of upper and lower tools. I'm using a radiused upper anvil hear to smooth out the front lower flange.

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I came up short on two sections of the front headlight bucket flange and this required that I weld in two small pieces. Very much a pain...but "hammer and learn."

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The fit is better than the photo would indicate. The finish isn't that good, but I hope to improve with each panel. I can honestly say it is comparable to that raw metal Maserati A6 I saw in Stuttgart back in March. Not great, but serviceable.

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I added a "doubler ring" to the front flange because I want that area to be very rigid. I've got a lot of welds meeting there, and the headlight bucket (from an MG-B) will be kind of heavy. I used 3/32" countersunk aircraft rivets.

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I'm learning a lot as I go along, and I very much invite and welcome all comments and critiques.
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  #46  
Old 06-24-2017, 12:59 AM
roversam roversam is offline
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Looks great keep up the good work
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  #47  
Old 06-24-2017, 08:38 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Great to watch what and how you are using the tools. Thanks.
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  #48  
Old 06-24-2017, 11:41 AM
vroom vroom is offline
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Nice work Bill! Are you using 1100 only on the lower ledge? Why not 3003?
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  #49  
Old 06-24-2017, 11:46 AM
longyard longyard is offline
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I decided to go 1100 because it is easier to shape. The original cars were.050 (1.2mm), but I'm not sure the alloy. So since I'm using .063 the 1100 should be strong enough.
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  #50  
Old 06-24-2017, 02:37 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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Nice work Bill.
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