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  #21  
Old 09-08-2016, 01:08 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
Fender filler panel Number 2 is complete..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uvnvZTTEbs




Fender patch is getting closer...




Nice job!
Peter
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  #22  
Old 09-08-2016, 12:17 PM
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.....taking the panel out of arrangement just isn't the same with this 16 gauge stuff.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2016, 08:58 PM
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Final tweaks ..... clamped and marked with a scribe..





Trimming out the rust...



14 ga rated Milwaukee shear walks right through...



Trimming around the wired edging, careful not to nick it. The wrapped sheet metal is opened slightly using the door skin pliers..







With the sheet metal loosened from the wire, a slight twist will break the sheet metal at the score even not having cut through to the wire.





This outer section will become a template for the radius on the new patch.



Trimmed....



Fitted....



Saturday Kyle will get the old metal media blasted next to the weld seam so we can fire up the TIG welder..
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  #24  
Old 09-14-2016, 09:41 PM
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Time to break out the TIG welder. The new stumps for the upcoming metalshaping class work well as a welding table. The patch is securely clamped from inside to outside to get an accurate marking for tipping the fold around the wire.



Flexible Spline is used to carry the opening mark down the patch...



Tacked in with the TIG













Next we'll wrap the wire and trim the front edge to size.
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  #25  
Old 09-15-2016, 03:09 AM
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Once again beautiful work robert
cheers paul
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  #26  
Old 09-15-2016, 05:30 AM
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Thanks Paul!
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  #27  
Old 10-17-2016, 05:20 AM
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The end looks like a stainless steel stone guard now it is that shinny!
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2016, 09:45 AM
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The shop is hosting another Peter Tommasini class this year, one of the items to pass out to the attendees will be some of the rare earth magnets that we use. I just got my delivery in yesterday, these are Cup-26 magnets from Applied Magnets, they have a 65 lb pull. We use them for holding paper patterns to wheel wells during test fit to copper strip for welding backer..





We install a csk 10-32 and lock nut to act as a handle, and they are ready to use...









John has been assembling parts of the Biederman truck front end while waiting for the fender completion. He mocked up the hood the other day only to find out it didn't fit the cab as it should.





It looks like the cab is wider than the hood, as the radius does not match and it's pushing the hood outward and up....












To explain, this is a 1947 truck that had extensive rust in the cab. He found a cab on a newer truck, 1951 IIRC, that was made by the same company. It now appears the newer replacement cab is slightly wider than the original, so our intended option is to cut a slice from back to almost the front and add a pie slice to push the radius out and the beltline down where it belongs. Looks like an easier option than remaking the hood. Something else to add to the list. Just to make sure the wider cab doesn't affect fender fitment, we also mocked up the lower hood side and clamped the tapered filler panels and took a comparison measurement from the outside edges, front and back.














So we have just shy of 3/8 more in the back, or 3/16 pushed outward on each side. I think we can live with that, it likely is well within factory tolerance.. More to come..
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  #29  
Old 12-07-2016, 10:19 PM
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We headed over to John's this evening to see if we could figure out what to do with the 47 Biederman and its poor hood fitment.
The truck is a 1947 and still had the original composite cab when he bought it, which means a wood subframe structure covered in steel sheet, including the doors. Similar to the early 30's cars with wood and steel, the wood holds the moisture, the steel rots away. So John's original cab would have required EXTENSIVE repairs of the wood structure and nearly all of the steel panels. He did find a 1950 Oshgosh donor truck that had the same manufacturer cab, but by 1950 it was now completely steel construction, and thus much more solid. He was initially looking for the doors, but as nice as the cab was, it only made sense to use it as well. The hood was already gone, so he used the original 47 hood with the 50 cab. Unfortunately, the first time the hood was test fit to the new cab was after paint was complete, and we find that the dimensions changed slightly. So, now that you're caught up to speed, what we have is a hood that fits the grille shell fine, but sits up too high on the back side by about an inch on each side and the radius doesn't match...







I had originally told John we could slice down through the radius from the back to just shy of the front and add a pie wedge to add the inch needed at the back. So we pulled the hood loose this evening to see where we would have to make the cuts to install the wedge and also fit the radius of the cab....





Now using a true pie wedge would also give us compounding shrinking effects where the HAZ of each crossed at the front of the hood. As a possible remedy, we looked at making a wider slice, radius on the front end, widen to what was needed, and cut the filler to fit...



The more we looked at this and all the welds, trimming, etc that would be needed, it became clear that a totally new hood could be made in about the same amount of time and give a much nicer job in the end. So it looks like we're ordering more 16 gauge steel and have a hood to make in addition to all the fender work..
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  #30  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:48 PM
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Well, I need to make a little progress on a 16 gauge fender, so the highly precise stand for the Laser Level was used. We have about 13-3/4" difference in height from back edge of fender to front edge. So Laser is set at 13-3/4 above the table, with heights verified to all four corners of the table.



Prior to trimming the front of the fender we had measured some reference marks to the front edge for locating the new cut line..



Adding those lower edge marks back on our fender patch, we adjusted the height of the fender front for the laser to match those marks by sliding our jack stand fixture around inside the fender until we had the correct height. Hey, this is technical stuff!





And traced the laser mark with the sharpie...



Initial cut to remove the bulk was done with the Milwaukee shear, the final was done with Midwest Shears. I figured slower = more precise...



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