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  #31  
Old 08-02-2016, 07:43 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is online now
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Originally Posted by onya View Post
Good morning Peter,

I got 1.9mm just because that is what the original Door frame is made from and I just thought that Henry Ford knew best .
I think that if you use 1.6 it will be OK
I just built a frame just like that and used 1.2 all around the bottom of the frame + sides and once welded all together it was strong enough ...but I did used 1.6 reinforcement where the hinges where
Peter
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  #32  
Old 08-02-2016, 10:53 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by onya View Post
I had a go at tipping an edge of 1.9mm tonight on the E Wheel, not real accurate and the radius on the bend is way too big.
I was surprised that my Shrinker actually worked on 1.9mm, I am going to try making a template out of 6mm next and clamp it all in the Vice and bend it with a Hammer.

Attachment 38199
I've struck/tipped edges in thicker materials by using the blunt chisel method, and hammering a wide carpet chisel that has the edge rounded off.
I either clamp the piece down with double stick tape under it, or screw it down. I work it into soft plywood - CDX - as it is junky enough to compress along the chisel line.
For doing 3 or four long pieces I used the rivet gun with a blunted chisel in that and make several full-length passes, gradually weakening the crease so I can either bend it in the vise or use a big steel block and a heavy hammer to persuade the parts the rest of the way to a 90.
Not such a big deal to strike a line in heavy stock ....
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  #33  
Old 08-02-2016, 03:42 PM
onya onya is offline
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Peter,

Just for interests sake what thickness do you use for the majority of your Body Panels because I have been using 1.2mm for all my body panels only because that is what they were originally.

Hello Kent,

Thanks for the info I'll test it out on the weekend.
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  #34  
Old 08-07-2016, 07:02 AM
onya onya is offline
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Thanks for the tip Kent, worked well on 1.9mm thick but I made a 6mm thick template as well just to form the metal over because I had to make all 4 sides at varying lengths.
I am almost finished 1 side completely.

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  #35  
Old 08-07-2016, 05:44 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onya View Post
Peter,

Just for interests sake what thickness do you use for the majority of your Body Panels because I have been using 1.2mm for all my body panels only because that is what they were originally.

Hello Kent,

Thanks for the info I'll test it out on the weekend.
onya...
Most of the time on steel panels ,I use 1mm cold rolled. On some frame work I use 1.2 especially if there is a lot of shape (it makes a lot stronger).Unless it needs to be absolutely strong ....then I would use 1.6
On ally panel I use 1.6 half hard 5005 H34.
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
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Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM
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  #36  
Old 08-11-2016, 06:14 AM
onya onya is offline
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The replacement bottoms of the Doors are ready to tack weld into place now.
I am figuring it would be best to get the Doors hung and see that they fit the Body profiles before permanently welding into place.
Does any one have any tips or ideas on hanging Doors and getting them to fit properly?

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  #37  
Old 08-23-2016, 06:49 AM
onya onya is offline
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Getting closer to re skinning time, going to try and hang the Doors on the Body this weekend to make sure the Frame is fitting right.

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  #38  
Old 08-24-2016, 03:47 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Coming together there nicely Leigh.
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  #39  
Old 09-01-2016, 07:06 AM
onya onya is offline
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I started on hanging the Doors, it's a bit of a Jig Saw Puzzle because after the previous owner chopped the top he deleted the top Hinges as well.
The Drivers side bottom Hinge block was made out of a lump of steel with a hole bored through it and welded onto the "A" pillar so I had to cut it off and shape up the sheet metal for the bottom mount to match the passenger side but in mirror reverse.
I bought a piece of threaded Rod to put through all 3 new hinges and will leave in place while fitting the hinges to the "A" pillar so I know they all line up correctly and won't bind.
In theory it should work but we'll see?

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The hinge block on the left is original Henry Ford and the hinge block on the right was made by somebody else and welded to the "A" Pillar.
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The Hinge Block on the left was sent from the USA without threads so I had to put some in, new Hinges that require work who woulda guessed!
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  #40  
Old 09-25-2016, 06:21 AM
onya onya is offline
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I can't say I don't have a Bead Roller any more! I bought a cheapo from Hare & Forbes and modified it. Top shaft moves up and down with spring and moves 25mm in and out.
I will get the local engineer shop to Key Way put a couple of 75mm Sprockets on it and then I should be right to go.
I will get back onto the Model A Doors next week now I have the Bead Roller nearly finished.

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