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  #21  
Old 07-26-2016, 05:26 AM
onya onya is offline
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The passenger Quarter was rusted all through the join seam on top and bottom so I made up the profile of the bottom of the top Panel and the top of the bottom panel and shrunk them a bit and then welded them in and bolted them up on the inside of the Body.

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  #22  
Old 07-27-2016, 05:49 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Nice to see how you went about it.
So you made this piece by folding it completely over the flat bar first, then clamp it in the vice the depth of the fold you wanted left, used the chisel to open the rest back up again and fold over 90*?
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  #23  
Old 07-27-2016, 06:40 PM
onya onya is offline
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Hello Marcus,

Yes that is all correct but first I had my local Sheet Metal shop do a 90 bend on their break and then I went from there.
I actually asked them to do the whole profile but they said it couldn't be done so I asked them where their sense of adventure was.
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  #24  
Old 07-28-2016, 05:27 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thank Leigh for clarifying. Will have to remember it now.
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  #25  
Old 07-31-2016, 06:57 AM
onya onya is offline
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My tutorial on how to remove the rusty door latch.
Smash the Handle as hard as you can from the inside with a metal punch until you get as much of it as you can hanging out the outside of the Door, then cut it off and smash it back the other way.
Now you can grind the tops off the screws and use countersink bit to remove the rest and then you can remove the latch mechanism.

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  #26  
Old 07-31-2016, 07:10 AM
onya onya is offline
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The Doors are on the Bench now, bit of work involved here.
There were a few cracks in the metal where the 90 fold is and this was causing the inside Panel to move in and out so I made up some more support and welded them in.
I also had to move the Window Winders away from the dash by 50mm because the Handles were hitting the 1952 Shoe Box Dash so I just cut out the 3 holes and moved them.
I gotta rebuild the bottom of the Doors and Wheel up some new bottom Door Skins, rust in all the usual places, won't this be fun.

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  #27  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:05 AM
onya onya is offline
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Does any body have any good ideas for Tipping the edge of the new door side?
I don't think the E Wheel will tip 14 gauge steel real well and I don't have a Bead Roller.
I am thinking of cutting the shape into 2 pieces of Ply and clamping the Steel between them in the bench Vice and just use a Hammer to Tip it.
The other way I thought of is just cut the shape and weld the Flange to it.
I am going to cut the whole section out from the Marker line to the left of the first Photo.

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  #28  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:28 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onya View Post
Does any body have any good ideas for Tipping the edge of the new door side?
I don't think the E Wheel will tip 14 gauge steel real well and I don't have a Bead Roller.
I am thinking of cutting the shape into 2 pieces of Ply and clamping the Steel between them in the bench Vice and just use a Hammer to Tip it.
The other way I thought of is just cut the shape and weld the Flange to it.
I am going to cut the whole section out from the Marker line to the left of the first Photo.

Attachment 38185

Attachment 38186
1.9 ????? Would 1.2 or may be 1.6 be thick enough for the frame?
Peter
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  #29  
Old 08-01-2016, 03:35 PM
onya onya is offline
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Good morning Peter,

I got 1.9mm just because that is what the original Door frame is made from and I just thought that Henry Ford knew best .
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  #30  
Old 08-02-2016, 07:13 AM
onya onya is offline
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I had a go at tipping an edge of 1.9mm tonight on the E Wheel, not real accurate and the radius on the bend is way too big.
I was surprised that my Shrinker actually worked on 1.9mm, I am going to try making a template out of 6mm next and clamp it all in the Vice and bend it with a Hammer.

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