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  #1  
Old 01-03-2015, 03:22 PM
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Z5Roadster Z5Roadster is offline
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Default Dustless Blasting

Anyone had any experience with this product, supposed to remove paint and rust without any distortion or warping, uses crushed glass as an abrasive medium carried by high pressure water with a rust inhibitor. If any good it's a tool hire piece of equipment rather that buying. Just to check, is this the same as soda blasting? Have read through Bill Langyard's thread on Vacuum Blasting and not finding Dustless anywhere I thought I would add it, although I do have a short term use for the process.
Youtube clip here
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:12 PM
Dave Deyton Dave Deyton is offline
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Don't know about this, but when we went to Wright Patterson Air Force base museum, they blasted the planes with dry ice. The thing about dry ice is it sublimes, so it goes from solid straight to gas (CO2). The only thing left was the residue removed from the plane. They could apparently remove the old paint none layer at a time. Looks expensive, but had very nice and precise results.

The fact that water is used, makes me leery. I don't want moisture with those bare surfaces.

I'll be interested to learn more about both these procedures.
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:22 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z5Roadster View Post
If any good it's a tool hire piece of equipment rather that buying. Just to check, is this the same as soda blasting?
Well the video is pretty conclusive that it does a very good job; don't know about panel distortion though.

Crushed glass is silica (Si O2); soda blasting is using bi-carbonate of soda, which I am told does not remove rust and requires no masking of windows,

Cheers Charlie
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:26 PM
fabricator fabricator is offline
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Tom, looks pretty impressive, presumably only the used media / old paint is left behind to clear away? Not sure about moisture being left in all the box sections though?
I had a shell Soda Blasted last year, very dusty, as it's done dry, fortunately done at the blasters workshop !
I would be interested to see if anyone offers this service here in the UK too.
Neil.
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2015, 06:28 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Default Different process than soda blasting

Along with my beadblast cabinet and 100 lb pressure pot for bigger stuff, I've done a lot of smaller soda blasting and like it but it will not touch rust or filler. Everything soda blasted needs to be properly cleaned after to avoid corrosion between iron/steel and alloy parts and to resolve pH issues that can ruin paint.

It has its place, is very gentle and very cheap if you buy 100lb bags of soda or easy to pick up a little at any dollar store or walmart when that's all you need or real suppliers are closed. It doesn't texture the surface like typical glass beading and literally nothing but water soluble dust remains to clean up, aside from removed paint dust. The pH of this dust will top kill any grass, leaves, etc but doesn't seem to hurt the actual plant. They all turn black but grow back quick.

If you don't use a proper mask, the soda dust will make the snot run out of your nose like water. If you're sweating, the dust is REALLY irritating, like a minor sunburn wherever the dust gets to settle and stay on your moist skin.

Partly because of these reasons, I was looking at wet media blasting lately as well. The advertising I saw claimed the rust inhibitor was good for 72 hrs before stripped surfaces needed priming.
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Old 01-03-2015, 06:58 PM
keith keith is offline
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I had a car done in June of 2014. The glass with water runs about 10 degrees lower than the ambient tempature. I did not expierence any warpage. I will have it done again on my next project.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:04 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Dry Ice Blasting

I've never witnessed it being used, but I know that mold removal guys use it to clean off the mold.
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:10 AM
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Z5Roadster Z5Roadster is offline
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Thank you for all the replies, quite a mixed bag but that's good to have several different view points. Regarding the concerns of dampness, of late I have been using a product called Fertan which is a rust converter, this works on unpainted steel which is first lightly dampened before spraying with a domestic trigger action hand pump. You know the type you find in the kitchen or greenhouse.

Will make a couple of calls tomorrow to check if a Dustless unit can be hired by the day as all I can find online is minimum hire 2 weeks, from HSS (UK)

Thanks
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:55 AM
Andyman Andyman is offline
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A guy here in Santa Rosa recently bought this set up. I went to a demonstration last month. He blasted a door panel full power straight on and it didn't show any warpage, the panel was very cold to the touch. It seems as effective as any other blasting. That said I am waiting for him to get more experience on other peoples sheet metal. I am going to have some wheels blasted, seemed to work well.

The question of drying out hidden areas is something to consider. I also haven't had a painter comment on the antirust they mix in to the glass.

Andy
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Old 01-04-2015, 04:27 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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I use a molasses bath to de-rust smaller items such as wheel-rims and axle housings; it has a similar effect to wet-blasting, in that the surface will rust immediately the item is washed.

What I have found works well, is to dry the part quickly using the sun, or a towel and then brush with a rust-converter - I use Ranex. Because the new rust is probably microscopically thin, the rust-converter works instantly and then the parts can be hung up to dry inside, or near a heater.

The thing to remember is that grit-blasting inevitably leaves residue stuck in all the places where no matter how well you blow it down with air, they will always remain. Places such as the seams on a riveted wheel-rim; inside the sills of a car, etc. Once the car gets damp after a restoration, the sand will stay damp longer and promote rusting,

Cheers Charlie
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