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Old 11-19-2014, 12:17 PM
juss juss is offline
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Default Clear Lacquer for Stainless steel?

Hello

I have a special car trailer what I covered with polished and brushed stainless steel. I want to cover the stainless steel with clear lacquer because that stainless surface does not stay nice and clean.
The trailer moves daily on gravel roads.

Can you recommend me some lacquers what I could use?
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:16 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Juss..

Have a look on the POR website and check out the Glisten PC, it's what most Trucking companies use in OZ to keep their trailers/wheels and fuel tanks looking pristine.

http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC_p_45.html

Regards John
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:04 AM
juss juss is offline
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I bought the POR-15 Glisten PC. I prepared the surface as required but the temperature was too high and lacquer surface does not smoothen, it stay like chicken skin.
OK it was my mistake, the temperature was too hot and the lacquer was not time to smoothen.
I sanded the lacquer surface to really smooth (I used much finer sandpaper what was recommended, all the chiken skin holes out)
When I paint the next time, the temperature was almost the minimum, I used maximum amount of thinner and the air humidity was under 30%, air pressure was maximum what was recommended and the lacquer amount was small what was coming out of the cun(I did everything to get smooth surface) But the surface still looks like chicken skin and when I put on more lacquer it start to run.
And thous parts what I painted two time, I can see sanding trails between layers and those parts are not so shiny as one time coated parts.

I do not say it is bad product but it does not meet my expectations!

Maybe I did something wrong, i donīt know.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:13 PM
cameron cameron is offline
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Chicken skin with holes? Could be silicone contamination of the surface.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:54 PM
juss juss is offline
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No no the surface are covered all over with lacquer. With those holes I mean surface where lacquer layer is thinner.
I can guarantee that in compressed air there are no moisture and no oils.
I washed the surfaces with all kind of different solutions do remove oil, silicone and so on.
If there are problem with the surface most of the times that are seen when you are putting on the first layer.
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:30 PM
Kidpaint Kidpaint is offline
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Its hard to get anything with a shine to really stick to bare metal. Automotive clears will eventually chip and peel off at they are made to stick to the paint that stick the the primer/sealer that is made to stick to the metal. I have heard about people using clear powder coating, but I have no experience with this. Its a pain keep stainless clean, I know that all to well. If its a small part, I just wax it to no end an polish it hoping the wax will keep to much from sticking. Sorry this wasnt much help, I was just giving my experience on what doesnt work more than what does.
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:39 PM
650 650 is offline
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Default adhesion promoter

Sounds like there is silicone involved somewhere the cratering you describe is normally symptomatic of that.
One solution may be to use an adhesion promoter like a clear primer, just a dust coat to help adhesion then two coat the clear first coat a tack coat give it 10 mins then put on the second coat.
Im in Australia and here all the major brands Dulux, standox, du pont etc all have clear adhesion promoters check with the local paint supplier.
The other option is marine clear, try spartan, or azko nobel i think it is in the states.
Hope that helps
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:47 PM
Mark W Mark W is offline
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I use Nyalic with stainless. It isn't on the road, so I don't know how durable it would be, but it sticks good and doesn't yellow.
www.nyalic.com
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:01 AM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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Try asking your local alloy wheel refurbishment shop. Many of the surface coatings used to repaint alloys are not UV-fast so they need a clear lacquer over the top so those products are designed to be durable and shiny.

Will
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:40 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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I used the POR Glisten on a set of Carbies just before Christmas. They came out great, looked like I sprayed them with a gun, but used a brush, showed no brush marks.
I found the key is not to re-coat to quick. If you do then you will get solvent bubbles. It has to be pretty much dry for 2nd coat.
And the product is totally resistant to Fuel and Thinners when cured.
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