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  #11  
Old 10-06-2014, 06:14 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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This is the way I am plugging the old holes, mainly from the frame rivets. Eastwoods sell these welder helpers with the handle holding the copper. It comes with a few different end pieces for curves etc. You just place it under the hole and weld straight on top of the copper and it wont stick to it. I have only recently got these but just used a piece of brass for the same job the previous 30 years, but gets hot pretty quick so you have to clamp it instead. Even this handle covering started to melt after about 5 holes straight, so have to run it under a tap to cool it after that many in a row.


Finished filling all the holes. I'll finish sanding the rails with finer grade paper later as they will get marked up anyway. Have them coated with sheep grease or lanolin to stop them from rusting until they get painted. Just spray on and wipe off so it is not sticky.


Time to start on my first cross member. I must have at least two originals for it to be registered as a 48 Willys under club registration rules, in case I go that way for a 90 days a year permit. For full road registration I still require at least one.


Looking a bit worse for wear with rust, twists, bends, dents, holes and buckles!


The old PTO hole was a bit big to just fill with weld so dropped in a washer of the same thickness as the frame.


Well 40 odd holes filled and a lot of tacks on some rust pitting that was first cleaned out with my die grinder.


Looking a lot better now. As you can see the ends taper up to the same height as the end of the frame rails. Problem is that I am running the rear of the frame 6.5" narrower to match the width of the frame under the Grand Cherokee and all the axle bracket positions. These trucks have a 6.5" wider rear axle than the front and I will be running the same width front and rear.


After cutting to the new length, the ends no longer match the ends of the frame rails. So a wedge was cut out and the flange bent up to match it.


I will box this member as will be used to support a towbar as well.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 10-06-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2014, 07:25 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Thanks Dan and Dave. I was not sure to include the chassis part of the build on here being a metal shaping site. Thought I would just show some of the more interesting parts of it anyway to get a better idea of how it came together.

As long as the chassis work is part of an end-to-end project that includes major metal shaping, like this will, it is fine to include it. If you were just going to describe the chassis work, we'd probably have a talk.
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  #13  
Old 10-06-2014, 07:34 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
As long as the chassis work is part of an end-to-end project that includes major metal shaping, like this will, it is fine to include it. If you were just going to describe the chassis work, we'd probably have a talk.
Excellent Kerry. Thank you for guiding me on it.
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  #14  
Old 10-07-2014, 02:43 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Hi Marcus

Nice build you have going on.

A metal shaping 'god' friend of mine (Mike Roberts - facebook Hammer Works) put me onto a metal protection fluid called Epiphos. It's a quick drying phosphoric etch transparent primer thing... For most bits I use a small domestic spray bottle, squirt bits lightly and then wipe smooth/off with a rag. It dries very quickly, lasts for months inside and can be welded through without issue. The guy that acid dipped and fine media blasted our racecar shell, sprays it inside and out immediately after blasting. It's better than the Henkel 'Keyphos' I previously used. http://www.chemetall.co.nz/product/epiphos
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  #15  
Old 10-07-2014, 07:39 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by skintkarter View Post
Hi Marcus

Nice build you have going on.

A metal shaping 'god' friend of mine (Mike Roberts - facebook Hammer Works) put me onto a metal protection fluid called Epiphos. It's a quick drying phosphoric etch transparent primer thing... For most bits I use a small domestic spray bottle, squirt bits lightly and then wipe smooth/off with a rag. It dries very quickly, lasts for months inside and can be welded through without issue. The guy that acid dipped and fine media blasted our racecar shell, sprays it inside and out immediately after blasting. It's better than the Henkel 'Keyphos' I previously used. http://www.chemetall.co.nz/product/epiphos
I will keep an eye out for that. The lanolin works as an anti spatter too and use it either in a spray can or squirt bottle. Sold under the INOX brand as well. Use the Lanotec brand as well and has no effects on paint after being wiped off with thinners etc.
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  #16  
Old 10-07-2014, 08:20 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I had cut the coil over top mounts that were part of the inner guard from the donor. Turned a flange around the edge to stiffen it up. To get it to sit flush against the side of the chassis rail it was notched and plated.


Fully welded from both sides. After this extra width was added to the frame rail to the same width as the notch so no loss of strength.


All angles and positioning was checked against the recordings I had made earlier before the tear down with the vehicle exactly level.


Welded in.


Original mounts for the engine cradle from the donor were also added into the frame rail along with any suspension mount bosses and fuel tank threaded nuts etc. Once this was done templates of the boxing plates could be made.


Boxing plates were cut from the same thickness as the frame material. Will only have one join along its length.


Only one set of templates were needed as just flipped it for the other side.


The templates were made leaving the thickness of the flange each side so a nice corner weld could be made. Fit well over the swaybar boss that had already been fully welded in. The other hole is for the rear shock mount bush that was drilled at a 8* angle the same as stock. I drilled these before putting them on the rails so no swarf would end up inside the rails. Back of the plates and inside of the rails were sprayed with weld through zinc coating.


Boxing up the front has 6 different bends needed so it would sit flat. Being quite thick I came up with this method to bend them.


Fits a lot better now.


The join was down like this to get a long weld length and reduce the possibility of a stress riser. Can also see the mount for the transmission cross member already added in the other rail.


All plated up ready for fully welding.


To keep them from twisting or bending during welding, some RHS was tacked between the two rails as well as other supports.


It was welded in short lengths like this to control distortion. Also rolled over and done underneath so the welding heat was always kept balanced top to bottom and on the opposite rail in the same place too.


Now fully welded, all 18 meters or 59' of it! RHS and supports were not removed until fully cooled. Less than 1/2" it moved over its length and was able to bring that back into line carefully with the press.


9" grinder was used to dress the welds taking very little off at all. Was then cleaned up with a 7" sander.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 10-07-2014 at 11:41 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2014, 04:20 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Top job there Marcus, progressing nicely. Very neat job of boxing those rails. Also good to see you are a couple steps ahead of fabrication with pre-thinking things like Crossmember mounts and supports.

Cheers John
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2014, 06:15 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Oldnek View Post
Top job there Marcus, progressing nicely. Very neat job of boxing those rails. Also good to see you are a couple steps ahead of fabrication with pre-thinking things like Crossmember mounts and supports.

Cheers John
Thanks John. I'd rather take the extra time early on and have it go faster later when it doesn't need to be done then and take longer.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2014, 06:34 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Back on the rear cross member. Going to use it to house the rear towbar as well. I cut the corners with a hole saw to match the corners of the SHS on the hitch.


The original cross member was only 2" wide and that is too narrow to use as a towbar. Needs to be 3" wide in this wall thickness. So rather than making the second cross member 1" wide to add to it, I cut 1/2" off both making them both 1.5" wide to get my 3" of total width. The reason is it means the pull when welding will be even and will stop it turning into a banana! Also gives me two perfectly straight edges to work with.


I used the 58 cross member to back up the 48 one after lots of cleaning up rust and bolts holes etc. Needed even more work than the 48 shown earlier. You will noticed that I set the flanges up a few degrees short of 90. The reason is the welding will shrink the flanges down and you end up with a dip all the way down the seam which could not be removed later.


Hitch is in as well and will weld in sections keeping the welds balanced top to bottom.


Having it in two halves kept it nice and straight.


The preset angle on the flanges worked out well with the welding heat pulling it perfectly flat.


Made up some safety chain loops and it has a nut for an anti rattle screw.


You are looking at the back of the cross member as want the hitch hidden as much as possible. Front side will be hidden behind the number plate.
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2014, 06:42 PM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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These are the rear upper coil mounts and also hold the bump stops in place from the donor.

[IMG]http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0015/45/60/15915406_large.jpg
[/IMG]
As nearly half the mount will hang out to one side of the frame, it needs to be supported. Rather than just a couple of triangular gussets, thought I would make something similar to how it was originally supported on the donor Jeep. One was cut out and then a template made from it so a duplicate could be cut out.


I only had some 90mm/3.5" heavy walled pipe to use, but really wanted 100mm/4". So the pieces were cut out a bit bigger so they could be modified. Drew out a circle to the size I wanted and then slowly shaped the pipe on the anvil until it matched the larger 4" size. Welding them to some 4mm plate.


The support plates were cut out bigger by the material thickness of the coil perches all round so it could be welded right near the edge and then ground smooth. If you make both pieces the same size and weld on the edge, once ground, the weld will be lost. All the existing holes will be used as plug welds for extra strength.


Just sitting there at the moment and looking from the top side, gives you some idea how it will look once mounted. The covered area of the frame has already been coated as well as the back of the mount.
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