#1
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Stripping
Picking up a 30 coupe on thursday want wanted to get some info from the pros. I wan to know the best medium for stripping the paint and rest off of it before I have to replace the door panels. I have heard walnut shells to a da grinder. Any info and input is great, thanks
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#2
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Ya.... The answer is what ever works the best, in the least amount of time, for the fewest dollars.
It really depends on what is on the surface. Re-paint? Rust?? There is no easy answer. That is why professional media blasters have an arsenal of products available to them (and why they cost so much). Do you have pictures and an idea of what is on the surface???
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Christopher Rathman Chris' Autobody Restoration Service |
#3
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I personaly stay away the blasting, I have heard of horror stories. Bodies come back warped even with the walnut shells.
I have always used a striping wheel (the gray/black coarse)and a DA. it should only take a day or two to strip a coupe. as for the rust I would use Rustmort. rustmort just brush it on and let it dry.It will turn gray.Just follow the instruction on the can works GREAT!.
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Rick Scott The second mouse gets the cheese! Last edited by HEATNBEAT; 11-18-2009 at 09:55 AM. |
#4
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I just finished this process up on doors, tailgate and hood for an early Bronco. The doors and tailgate had at least 3 layers of paint. I used paint stripper from Home Depot. Got a gallon of the 15 minute stuff. It came with a spray bottle.
Spray it on and let it do it's thing. Then I used a "5 n 1" tool to scrap the paint off with. (Make sure you wear chemical resistant gloves, this stuff burns like hell if you get it on your skin, work in well ventilated area, etc). It took two and even 3 applications in some areas. This stuff will take bondo off too. Clean everything up. Next thing I did was used a DA with 80 grit to remove anything left over and to scuff up the metal. Then got it into epoxy primer immediately to prevent rusting. In all, it probably took about 6-8 hours per door to have prepped for epoxy primer. The hood was dipped along with the body tub a few years ago so all I had to do on it was remove the rust. Here is a great procedure from another forum. I printed this off and followed it word for word. Worked awesome. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secr...t=rust+removal Obviously there are many ways to do anything but this worked best for me based on working at home in my garage in a neighborhood with a farely strict HOA and the fact that I have more time than money. Also, my way put no heat into the metal so no chance of distortion.
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Jamey |
#5
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Quote:
I hate to keep using this analogy, but rust is cancer. It must be removed or it will keep coming back. You can keep it in submission but the odds of survival are slim.
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Christopher Rathman Chris' Autobody Restoration Service |
#6
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The only horror story I have from media blasting is the company didnt do as I asked and then overcharged me. I have since found other people to do my blasting work. No warpage as of yet.
Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#7
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Marty,
do you guys have a local media blaster you use, or is it strictly sand blasting? I need to have my sonoma roof blasted soon. Tony
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Tony |
#8
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Tony, call the shop (or god forbid stop by ) and talk to Dad, he can give you the info you are needng.
Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#9
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i do walnut shell blasting and have had great success with it, good blasting is done a person that understands blasting, the person is as important then the type of media you chose. gary |
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