#21
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Cody - the only way I would be considering making that part is as somebody suggested earlier - having them CNC milled. You are halfway there given that you have them on CAD.
Do you know anybody who is a young engineer with a local manufacturer? Some firms actually condone what we call 'homers' in New Zealand as the small jobs can often challenge people and give them exposure to stuff they wouldn't see normally. I have a buddy who manages a prototype shop for a local large (for NZ) manufacturer where they make plastic injection prototype dies for the healthcare sector and they have all sorts of interesting little machining jobs being done on the side.
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#22
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Cody, I can make these on my mill if you are interested. I'll need better dimensions in the prints. The important part is the distance between the holes and the overall size dimensions. That needs plotted in an X,Y format, then the offsets for the radius's finish the part. It will also help to know what it is and where it's going to help keep the structural sizes reasonable. IMHO a sheet of .25" spaced graph paper trumps most programs for simple part plotting.
This is a simple bracket I made to mount the gauges on my Sportster that will help demonstrate the process. The blue lines are the part, the red is the cutter center line for a 1/2" end mill. Once drawn and plotted, the first step is to machine out the inner parts.I sketched the part in black Sharpie as I was making it out of some 1/4" scrap and wanted to make sure it would all fit. Then holding it from the inside cut the outside. Once you figure out the overall sizes I can find out how much the material will cost Monday or Tuesday when I'm off again.
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Jamie, the kid who took his toys apart... |
#23
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Thanks ranchero for the offer! I'll keep it in mind for next time. I just gave the go ahead for a shop to cut them for $70 for both. Was just getting on here to say I took everyone's advice and went the route of laser or water jet.
I'm self taught when it comes to the design aspect on the computer. I talk to machinist and he told me to make all my dimensions off one starting point like the top left corner so people have a set location to measure off of. Not knowing anything about machining this makes sense. Do you machinist agree?
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Cody Lunning |
#24
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Yep, X0,Y0 can be where you want it. Bottom left works well because all you coordinates will be positive. X1, Y1.25 Z1 will position the tool 1" in from the left edge, 1.25" from the bottom edge 1" above where you designated you vertical Z plane.
On the above drawing it's in the center at the 'L'. For me it was simpler to draw half the part then mirror image the other side and add small gauge protrusion. My advice is to visit some used book stores and look for some mechanical engineering and drawing books from the 50's or so. I picked up a couple for cheap and keep them at work to help the new guys understand how to interpret prints.
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Jamie, the kid who took his toys apart... |
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