reproducing boot floor

[haydenrrr]

Originally Posted by steve.murphy

Do you have a top hammerform sheet with cutouts that go all the way through to match the bottom sheet recesses? If they were fixed together it would act as a guide for the corking tool and hold the sheet metal tight while you form it.

hmm, theres an idea, might try that if i get time, seems to take forever lol

re: zinc sheet, as its already coated its good for rust protection and fine for welding (as far as i know lol) however im thinking that because its coated already it might be thicker and less workable whereas cold rolled may be easier? im no expert so maybe ill try a sheet of cold rolled. Thanks for the help though guys, appreciate it!

Hopefully all works out for me..

[longyard]

Welding a zinc panel creates poison gasses. I wouldn't.

[Kidpaint]

painting cold rolled is easier than galvanized too. not impossible, just easier

[haydenrrr]

might try it again with cold rolled steel, see how i go..

[Charlie Myres]

I find zinc-annealled sheet to be very hard to work - as you have.

1mm cold-rolled sheet is much better to shape and can be protected with paint,

Cheers Charlie

[pistol]

As longyard said I wouldn't .I had a friend who had to be taken to hospital because of the poison gases spent 6 days in there really messed him up.cold roll is the way to go

[snedboy]

Why don't you screw your sheet of steel to the former? You can easily weld the holes up after

[Oldnek]

I have used zincanneal sheet for 20 years, touch wood, no problems for me. It welds fine with no flare up, it is slightly harder to shape (only slight) compared to CRS. Especially when trying to wheel it. Doesn't split, doesn't rust except where you weld or heat it.
I don't know if we have a different composition to US, maybe Peter could clarify it for us, seen he has been there and seen what is available.

Your not getting confused with Gal Sheeting. Now that's not good for you.

[weldtoride]

I have welded galvanized for years. I clean as much zinc off mechanically around the anticipated weld haz as possible. The key is a proper respirator and room ventilation. I used them in my welding class shops, when the occasional galvanized repair showed up. The extent to which I trust these is that one of the first welding projects when I taught my son to weld was a gokart from 1 1/4" emt many years ago. We both wore proper respirators and did a great deal of the welding outdoors, what was done indoors was with exhaust fans. We also wore the respirators while sanding away the zinc. Recently I taught my daughter's friend how to braze, he brazed a bicycle trailer indoors from 1/2" emt, we followed the same regime.

This 3M 8214, N95 respirator is the one I currently use, the spec sheet I link to specifically states:

"Used in applications involving metal fumes"

and:

"Suggested applications: Welding, torch cutting, brazing, soldering, metal pouring, working with stainless, galvanized or aluminum."

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4529207&rt=rud

3M also has a different respirator labeled as a "welding" respirator, 8212, N95, however notice that the words stainless, galvanized, and aluminum are missing from the suggested uses statement: "Suggested applications: Welding, torch cutting, brazing, soldering, metal pouring."

Also missing is the phrase: "Used in applications involving metal fumes"

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4529207&rt=rud

It is somewhat confusing as the first number is labeled as a "particulate" respirator and the second as a "welding" respirator.

Both, however are found listed through a 3M catalog search of "welding respirator": http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...94529207&rt=r3

When I am welding and I think there is going to be any paint fumes from burn-off, I grab the 8214 respirator also. It's rated for organic vapors, not sure if that includes burning paint, but I have several of them handy all the time. If it can stop metal fumes, I am assuming it can stop other fumes. It is the lead from old paint I am most concerned about, anyways.

3m also has a 8512, N95 that is rated for metal fumes and galvanized: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...4529207&rt=rud however, it's not rated for organic vapors.

[Z5Roadster]

Hi Hayden, you might take a look at a toe board I made for my 1933 Plymouth,
this was made from 1mm m/s zintec which as said higher up the thread is tough as old boots but the way I did it I had minimum distortion, bottom of page 3+ is relevant. Good luck.

http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=7900&page=3