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  #1  
Old 08-12-2015, 09:54 PM
haydenrrr haydenrrr is offline
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Default reproducing boot floor

Hi guys,

The boot floor in my rx3 is rusted out and i am looking at reproducing a new boot floor (not wheel well) with similar patters as the original.



This is the pattern i have to recreate (this is not my boot floor). Can i do this with a bead roller and a big die? i dont think it looks to difficult but what do i know (ha ha)

Also i have limited tools but i am open to expanding my collection.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:40 PM
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Frank.de.Kleuver Frank.de.Kleuver is offline
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I would make a hammerform and a custom shaped chaser and hammer it in. I've see it also been done by hammering on a line on a hardened stake made from a gearbox shaft. But this takes a lot of practise.

A hammerform out of two layers would be my choise for a neat result.

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Frank
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:51 AM
haydenrrr haydenrrr is offline
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thanks mate,

would i be better off with a bead roller and a large die? what are other tools that might help with the job? cheers
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:51 AM
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Maybe. But a good hammerform makes the metal to stretche where you hit it. Not so the flat material around it. A custom die for a beadroller draws the material in and will distort your panel. But I'm no beadroller guru. Smaller beads can be pre stretched. I don't know if this can be done effectively in this case.

A pullmax is also a wapon of choice but it's quiet an investment.

Frank
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:29 AM
haydenrrr haydenrrr is offline
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so ive made my hammer form ready to go. once i do one section of the ridge will it deform my sheet and warp etc the other sections so it will become uneven not where it should be? if that makes sense. or is it just as simple as clamping the sheet to it and hammer away and it will be fine? thanks.

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Old 09-20-2015, 07:38 AM
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Looking good. It's important to clamp the flat area surrounding where you're working on firmly. This to prevent stretching.

Frank
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:44 AM
haydenrrr haydenrrr is offline
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awesome, just dont want it shifting and moving while im halfway through it and ruining the shape. will post it up when shes finished!
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Old 10-11-2015, 04:26 AM
haydenrrr haydenrrr is offline
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Alrighty, getting super frustrated...

did a trial on an old sign i had in the shed, was 1mm from memory, hd galved, came out like this


was very happy, didnt seem to warp much, basically just stood on top of the sheet and went away with my air hammer.

then i purchased my sheet for the boot, 1500x900x1 zinc annealed, clamped it down and had a go and came out like this..



absolute crap and am very dissapointed, how do i fix this?? is it because its zinc annealed and isnt as malleable etc? it just warped and looks very very rough

any help out there?!
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:08 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Do you have a top hammerform sheet with cutouts that go all the way through to match the bottom sheet recesses? If they were fixed together it would act as a guide for the corking tool and hold the sheet metal tight while you form it.
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Old 10-11-2015, 04:18 PM
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Hope I'm not being dumb, but if you are welding the new panel in, I wouldn't be using zinc coated.

Cheers
Dave
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