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Questions
Barry,
When you say "power hammer" are you talking about your Anoka, or a true power hammer that throws the weight? Just trying to make sure I understand what you are saying. Also, when you go to the "post" with urethane top die - are we talking Anoka? Chris, You can buy shipping containers that are already insulated, you loose some interior space. All foam insulation products are flamable, and a pain to put out once started. You must have a barrier between you and the foam. Sheetrock would be a start, but you need something to fasten it to. If you put in studs, they tend to transmit the sound to the exterior - to a degree. Offset studs are best. For foam, I prefer the closed cell - it doesn't hold moisture. For small jobs, you can buy the foam in a do it yourself kit from www.tigerfoam.com or other like manufacturers. I was recently in a high school welding shop that had the booths made out of cement board - available at Home Depot. I plan on adding the same to my shop. As for the subject of quiet vs noisy - Lazze's techniques have a lot to be said for them, and I hope to take his classes one of these days. But for me, I always seem to revert back to the noisy (air hammer in my case) because I get the shape going faster, and then use the Pinkerton ewheel to finish up. Fortunately, I live in the country, if I was in town, no way I could get away with the noise that the shrinking disc, planishing hammer and air hammer, make.
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John Ron Covell, Autofuturist books (Tim Barton/Bill Longyard) and Kent White metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane@mountainhouseestate.com for price and availability. |
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