All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > Metal Shaping Projects > Automotive Projects
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #161  
Old 11-17-2014, 03:08 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer-john View Post
Marcus, wonderful job you are doing. Just read the whole restoration to-day. Great description of the events.
Thanks for posting and keep up the great work.
Looking forward to seeing the finished project.
Thanks very much John and glad it kept you reading to the end so far.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #162  
Old 11-17-2014, 03:10 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skintkarter View Post
Hi Marcus - looking great.

You might want to have a play with tig plug welds as a no cleanup option to the mig plug welds. I've used the mig process for many years, but one of our local sheetmetal 'god's described to me how he does tig 'spot welds'. Mike's method is to drill a 3mm (1/8) hole through the top panel, clamp and cleco as required. Using the footpedal, start off with fairly low amps to get the rear panel to start to fuse, then start to increase the amps and use some 0.9mm mig wire as filler to bring the puddle up to pretty much level. He then gives it a burst on the pedal to complete and leave a slightly dished finish. Have attached an example of Mike's work - rear wheel tubs made from scratch for a Cologne Capri replica he is building for a customer. These are in 1.6mm (16 SWG). I've managed to do them in the car just with the torch, but haven't quite got the hang of them to the point where I can do them consistently and have them look like Mike's every time.
Might have to try that. Have read others that had trouble getting tig plugs to bond properly, so didn't even try it for this wall.
Will practise before the next lot though to compare.

Thanks for sharing Richard.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #163  
Old 11-17-2014, 03:55 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Nov. 2018, Jan. 2021
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auckland New Zealand
Posts: 877
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Might have to try that. Have read others that had trouble getting tig plugs to bond properly, so didn't even try it for this wall.
Will practise before the next lot though to compare.

Thanks for sharing Richard.
Hi Marcus. Would have thought that this is in fact the reverse? When you tig plug weld, you can see that the top panel has started to fuse into the one behind and then as you crank up the heat and add filler rod, it becomes one molten puddle (bit of Frank Zappa circular motion with the torch). I think there is more heat involved than with a good mig plug, so distortion may be more of an issue if you are say in the middle of a panel.

It's not a great shot, but the strut brace brackets are tig plug welded to the strut tops in the attached. Both the bracket and the strut top are 3.0mm. I think I made the weld hole 5.0mm for these ones.

Have added a better shot of some lighter gauge stuff.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20140727_223615.jpg (86.4 KB, 473 views)
File Type: jpg 20140819_224315.jpg (78.8 KB, 467 views)
__________________
Richard
"I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers)
Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view

Last edited by skintkarter; 11-17-2014 at 04:33 AM. Reason: Better photo found
Reply With Quote
  #164  
Old 11-17-2014, 06:58 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Jan 2019
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,089
Default

Marcus, I really appreciate all the time you have taken to post your progress and tips and tricks. I have learned a lot, and appreciate all your designs and fabrication techniques. Very impressive!
__________________
Will
Reply With Quote
  #165  
Old 11-17-2014, 09:35 AM
JimRussell JimRussell is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mt. Dora, FL
Posts: 370
Default

If you can clamp the two panels together, why not just spot weld with your tig? Get the tungsten inside the cup about an 1/8" and set your amps to around 100 (experiment a little on different thicknesses of metal). Either count the time you run the arc or if you can see the backside watch the spot starting to melt. Stop before it burns through. I don't have a picture of the welding, but I do have one of testing the weld. They are two 18ga panels where I tried to separate them with a cold chisel.

Name:  testing spot weld.JPG
Views: 2434
Size:  45.4 KB
__________________
Jim Russell
Reply With Quote
  #166  
Old 11-17-2014, 10:14 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
MetalShaper of the Month
May 2009, Jan 2012, Dec 2014
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: England
Posts: 5,325
Default

Great thread Marcus, nice clear photos of the work at various stages. You are doing a good job of the welding and dressing out. It seems you have got a lot done in a little time.

David
__________________
Metalshaping DVD. www.metalshapingzone.com
Metalshaping with hand tools on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8

All things are possible.

Last edited by David Gardiner; 11-17-2014 at 10:23 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #167  
Old 11-17-2014, 07:39 PM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Nothing much to show this time but thought I would share what I have been up to all the same.


OK, found a problem after welding in the brace. I had pressed in some curve through the middle of the brace along the top flange as thought it would bend with the plug welds. Thing was it didn't move much, if at all! Tried hammering it forward while supporting the outer corners, but couldn't move it far enough. It needs to be straight as the rear window just above it has flat glass in it. So did the old run a mig weld bead trick to get some heat concentrated on the convex side of the brace to make it shrink there and flatten it out. Can see how much it has moved by the rippling in the panel.


There were a couple of spots that didn't go quite far enough. So rather than adding more mig weld on top of what was there, I heated the existing weld with my tig and that worked. Maybe next time I might try using the tig straight off as the heat source as there would be less grinding. I think you would still have to add a bit of filler so you don't leave a trough or burn through. So ground the weld out and then got the panel straight again. Used the shrinking disc mainly and a bit of hammer off dolly work. Not on dolly as that would only stretch it more.


Now to get the rest of the panel straight too. Can see here the dip. I would mark the back of the dip, which is a bulge on the other side of the panel, with some chalk and then run the shrinking disc over it, then use compressed air to cool it straight away.


As you can see the dip is gone now. I do find it works better for me to heat the convex side as it will pull away when the shrinking happens. If you go a bit too far, can then heat on the other side to bring it back again.


I only heat until straw colour, or until you feel it start to move if earlier. Then quickly hit it with the compressed air while the disc is slowing down and until stopped. That is usually the point where you can touch it with a bare hand. Some areas will move faster than others, so it is a bit of trial and error. Spent quite a bit of time going over the panel with a straight edge that covered the whole length to get it as best possible.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 04:02 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #168  
Old 11-18-2014, 06:37 PM
markyouel markyouel is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: east of Melbourne town , Australia
Posts: 43
Default

Great thread, Marcus

and a nice bit of welding and hammering over those contours
most impressive !
__________________
Mark
Reply With Quote
  #169  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:44 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Thanks very much Mark.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #170  
Old 11-20-2014, 04:44 PM
bimmer1980 bimmer1980 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: York, PA
Posts: 38
Default

Can you post a close up picture of your hammer holders? It looks like a repurposed flange??

Thanks!
__________________
Brad

Currently working on a new garage for the tools...
Also a member on garagejournal.com
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:09 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.